Author Archives: David Henshaw

Giant Twist 1.0 Electric Bike

Giant Twist 1.0

Giant Twist 1.0 Electric Bike

When Giant announced that the Lafree Twist (hereafter referred to as the Lafree to avoid confusion) was to be replaced,we were somewhat sceptical. Despite a few quirks, the old bike was light, efficient,and much loved – clearly it would take some beating.

The new bike was launched first in The Netherlands and Germany last year,and information has been oozing out ever since.It seemed the motor was a derivative of the Sanyo front hub motor we’d rather disliked on the cut-price Giant Suede,and there were two battery options heavyish,cheapish NiMH on the Twist 2.0, and state-of-the-art Liion on the Twist 1.0.In both cases,the bike carried two batteries, and the range was claimed to be phenomenal – ‘up to’ (we see that phrase a lot) 100 miles.There was also a suggestion of regenerative braking. Finally,we have a sample.Is it all true?

The Twist 1.0

Giant may be based in Taiwan,but it’s a truly global company,and where models are aimed at a specific market,the big cheese in Taipei wisely opts to use local knowledge. This wasn’t true of the original Lafree,an ugly, brutish creature,but the ‘classic’ Lafree and the new Twist have both been designed in The Netherlands,and it shows.

The Twist is a huge machine – high in the saddle and even higher in the handlebars.Ours has a medium frame,and most people can ride it,so the three options should cover one and all. Handlebar height is taken care of by a Tranz-X adjustable stem,giving adjustment from 110cm to 123cm on our bike.

And in true workaday Dutch style,it’s well equipped:suspension,full lights (battery LED at the rear and traction-battery powered halogen at the front),mudguards,centre stand,panniers,chain guard,wheel lock,and the latest Nexus 8-speed hub.In The Netherlands,this spec would be nothing special,but it’s rare in the UK.And,of course,this one has assistance too – behind the panniers (and sort of inside too,but we’ll come to this) are twin 27 volt Li-ion manganese oxide power packs of 270 watt/hours each.If that sounds like a chemistry lesson,the total 540Wh capacity is nearly three and a half times that of the superseded Lafree,and one of the biggest electric bike packs around.In other words,it should go quite a long way.These batteries are high-tech stuff,weighing only 2.6kg apiece.In terms of weight efficiency,the NiMH battery on the 2006 bike offered a reasonable 40 watt/hours per kilogram,but the new ones pack 104 watt/hours per kilogram.

The bike itself is a bit heavier than the Lafree,weighing 24.9kg,against 18 – 22kg.Add the pair of batteries,and the 2007 model weighs 30.1kg (66lb),against a class-leading 22kg (48lb) for the old Lite model.The good news is that it’s more rigid.The chunky,but beautifully finished alloy frame making the Lafree look a bit spidery.Oddly,the main tube is made to a ‘U’ profile,being open underneath,but there’s plenty of strength there.

First Impressions

The Sanyo front hub motor is based on the Electric Wheel,designed by O J Birkestrand of the Rabbit Tool Co,Illinois (see A to B15 ).This design showed great promise,but the road from prototype to production can be rocky,and the production version is not quite so clever.It’s an AC motor that’s permanently engaged,which enables it to provide power to get you up hills,and reabsorb power down the other side,but unlike a direct drive motors fitted to the BionX or Ion,the Sanyo has internal gears.To work quietly and without friction,these gears have to be very well engineered,and in practice we found the Suede’s Sanyo motor noisy and aggravatingly slothful.This one is much better,and actually quieter than the Lafree,but by modern standards it’s noisy,with a shade too much drag. We could forgive this if it offered regenerative braking,but as we’ll see,it doesn’t.

…the Nexus 8-speed is one of the best… the gear range is better, the number of gears is increased…

First impressions are that the crank feels strangely ‘cushioned’.This is caused by the sensing mechanism,which judges how hard the rider is pedalling.Like the old Lafree,this bike is a pure pedelec, meaning that the motor will only function if you’re putting in a reasonable amount of effort,so it isn’t suitable for those who don’t want to,or are perhaps unable to,turn the pedals.You get used to it,but in this area the Lafree won hands down,because it had a superb sensing mechanism – the best and most ‘conventional’ we’ve come across.

Another slightly odd sensation is of the front tyre ‘tram lining’ on the road surface.In fact,this is quite harmless and caused by a return spring,biasing the front wheel to the straight ahead position.It’s a useful feature when the bike is on the stand,protecting the motor cable from being stretched,but some people may be unnerved by the handling quirks.

The Nexus 8-speed hub gear is one of the best around,and certainly an improvement on the 7-speed Nexus fitted to the cheaper Twist 2.0.It’s usually possible to pedal right through upward changes,as you would with a derailleur – something you can’t always do with the Sturmey 8 or SRAM 7.But,human nature being what it is,you end up pushing the technology by doing it every time, and once in a while the hub gets caught out,producing a nasty clunk. We were also a bit disappointed by the gaps between gears,which vary wildly.We have no objection to a 22% gap between Gears 1 and 2,but are less keen on 14% between Gears 7 and 8, where a big gap can be useful. The hub is adjusted by lining up two yellow pointers in Gear 3, but they’re under the hub,and in this case,inside the chainguard which has to be partially removed.

The old Lafree Lite was fitted with a 3-speed Nexus,which didn’t give a wide enough range,and the more expensive models came with the 4-speed Nexus (more gears,same range),and later the 5-speed and 7-speed SRAM.On the new bike,the gear range is better,the number of gears is increased,and as the motor output takes a different route to the road,hub life should be improved definitely a plus point.

Gearing is about right for a bike of this kind.At 29 inches,first is low enough for most eventualities,even without assist,and at 89 inches,top is just up to fast riding,although another few gear-inches would be welcome.As usual with a Giant electric bike,power melts away at precisely 15mph,but the squidgy pedals and the constant drag mean you’re unlikely to voluntarily pedal any faster.The extra drag is little more than a dynamo,but it’s annoyingly noticeable,and several people observed that the Twist felt slower than the Lafree.It isn’t,but the drag makes it feel as though it is.Strangely,the resistance seems to melt away at very high speed,and the bike thunders down steep descents – we saw 40mph on two occasions.

On the Road

Giant Twist 1.0 Electric Bike

The high handlebars are very typical of a Dutch roadster. The batteries are effectively hidden

Generally,road speed is not high.We averaged 12.4mph on a hilly route,which is a little slower than the Lafree,but identical to the Sparta Ion.It’s worth pointing out that the Lafree’s crank motor could be tweaked with higher gearing to give ‘longer legs’,or with lower gearing to improve hill-climbing – all for the cost of a little sprocket.Although technically illegal,higher gearing only increased the average speed by 1mph or so,but gave nicer ratios for pressing on,with or without power,particularly useful with a following wind.On the new model,this sort of fine-tuning isn’t possible,or at least it is,but a change of rear sprocket will only increase the gearing for your legs , because the motor drives the front wheel.So in terms of adaptability,the old bike was much better.

With the slight motor drag,the extra weight,and that sharp cut-off at 15mph,journey times will not bring forth oohs and aahs from your friends.Our largely flat,but somewhat exposed 10-mile ‘commuter’ circuit took 41 1 / 2 minutes (an average of 13.2mph),where 35 to 40 minutes would be the norm for a good electric bike,and even a decent non-assisted folder (see Moulton in this issue) can better 40 minutes.

Tyres look jolly good.They’re designed in Holland (or so it says on the sidewall) and made by CSR,which turns out to be our old friend Cheng Shin Rubber,manufacturer of almost every bicycle tyre on the planet.Being generally slick,but with a handful of groovylooking swept back grooves,they look distinctly sporty.In practice,it’s hard to tell how effective they are,because the motor drag limits the rolldown speed to 10.6mph,which is bad news for a big-wheeled bike like this.Anyway,the tyres certainly look the part.

Brakes are a bit of a mixture.The front V-brakes are a bit too powerful,easily achieving a stable,safe emergency stop of .68G.It’s easy to go a bit too far – we saw .72G,but at this point the rear wheel is starting to lift off. In marked contrast,the Nexus roller brake at the back is a bit feeble,scraping up to .2G a long way from locking the wheel.From experience,we know these brakes improve a bit when properly ‘run in’,and they can easily go on to outlive the bike,but they’re not really strong enough to control a heavy trailer,and can overheat on long descents.

The ride is a bit hard,certainly compared to the Sparta Ion.Like the 1960s Moulton, the Twist front suspension uses a single spring hidden within the fork tube,but it doesn’t work half as well,being stiff and unresponsive,with limited travel.

…Giant claim up to 100 miles… 40 miles seems a safe overall figure…

Hill Climbing

The old Lafree was a slow but able hill climber, chugging up more or less anything.Putting the motor in the front wheel is easier and cheaper for Giant,but it does put a limit on hill climbing,because as road speed falls,the motor begins to lose interest.This makes it a bit difficult to put a figure on the maximum gradient,because so much depends on the strength of the rider. We found gradients of 1:8 relatively easy,and even managed a restart on 1:6,but that’s about it. This sort of thing is only possible because of the low first gear – something the cheaper Twist 2.0 won’t have.

As for going down the other side,the Twist does technically have regenerative braking, but it’s extremely limited.You have to find and press a rather fiddly button to make it work, it only cuts in above 10mph,and when it does,it’s so weak as to be almost unnoticeable. Only on a couple of long fast descents did we feel any retardation,and then only for a few seconds. Our bike may have been faulty,but the regen braking is too weak to be of any practical use. Disappointing is the word.

Range

Giant claims a range of up to 100 miles for the Twist,but that’s on the flat,with no headwind,using the lowest ‘Eco’ power setting,and subject to almost a page of caveats.No doubt this is possible in ideal conditions, but for the averagely tubby Westerner,in late for work mode,on a miserable cold and wet January morning,forget it.To be fair,Giant is realistic about this worst case scenario,claiming a more modest 25 to 38 miles.Using the highest ‘Power’ setting in near freezing weather and with some icy headwinds gave a figure of 18.5 miles per battery,which is more or less in line with expectations. Further trips yielded 20 to 23 miles per battery,so 40 seems a safe overall figure.

The battery capacity is indicated by a line of five LEDs.The first two are pretty inaccurate,popping off at the first sniff of a gradient,and very often coming back down the other side (no,that’s not regen).Then there’s a long pause until somewhere around 10 miles,when light three goes out.Once light four has gone (15 miles or so),power starts to sag,warning you that the final act is not far off.Normally, a slightly vague gauge would be a problem,but with two batteries,you simply flick a switch…assuming,of course,that you charged the correct battery last night.This reminds us of a friend with a Jaguar 420G who took out a second mortgage to fill both tanks,drove until the first tank was exhausted, pressed the button…and found the second fuel pump wasn’t working.There’s a moral there somewhere.

Is it fair to test the Twist only in ‘Power’ mode? We think so.We’ve used the setting that gives the closest approximation to the performance of the old Lafree in the same conditions.Ridden hard,that would do about 20 miles,or a fair bit more with care,but with twin batteries,the new Twist beats it hands down in terms of range.It’s actually rather less economic,drinking 15 watt/hours of juice per mile,against 10 or so for the old bike, but that was – to be fair – exceptionally frugal.In any event the Twist has so much more battery available,economy isn’t a major issue.

Charging

Things fall down badly here,but it’s a new design,so Giant should be able to sort things out before they hit the shops.The batteries are hung either side of a special rack,and they’re neatly encased by a pair of equally special panniers.The idea is that you turn a key with one hand,open the pannier and reach in with the other hand,then swing the battery down,unfurl a handle and lift it free.Ha! The man from Giant couldn’t do it,and we couldn’t either. In the end,two of us removed the panniers, and after quite a bit of head-scratching and pushing and shoving,we had a battery out.Once it’s out,be very very careful. On the front face,and serving no particular engineering purpose,are four plastic plates,as sharp as razor blades. We received a nasty cut on Day One,and a guest was bitten the following day…

Unfortunately,the charge socket is under the battery handle, and the handle cannot be folded down until the battery is most of the way out.Catch 22:you can’t grab the batteries without removing the panniers,but if you remove the panniers,the battery has to come right out or it will fall on the ground.And when you pick it up,you cut a finger on the nasty projections.Some people simply will not be able

…The battery problem sounds suspiciously like Computer Aided Design disease…

to charge the Twist batteries unless this lot is sorted out.Something else you could never predict is that with two identical batteries, your typically muddle-headed A to B tester soon forgets which is charged and which isn’t. ‘A’ and ‘B’ labels would help a bit here,and give us some free publicity.

Once the battery’s out,the charging process is straightforward.At 1.2kg and 20cm x 10cm x 5cm,the charger is rather large,but reasonably quick.It runs at full power for two hours,bringing the battery to 70% capacity,then at a slower rate for another hour and three-quarters,before shutting down – exactly the same as the old model.You can leave the battery connected for the rest of the night if you wish,but no longer,says the manual. Unfortunately,the batteries have to be charged independently,so a commuter travelling more than twenty miles a day will need to get the body armour back on and brave another battery swap late in the evening,leaving the second battery on charge overnight.

The whole battery problem sounds suspiciously like Computer Aided Design disease. In this sadly all too common scenario,some bright,spotty-faced young thing creates a wonderful 3D object d’art on a computer screen,but no-one actually finds out whether it bites until tens of thousands of dollars have been spent on tooling and it arrives at Manor Road,Dorchester.Amazing. Yes,the old Lafree battery was an ergonomic delight to whip in and out.Sometimes we used to do it just for the hell of it .

Accessories

Good and bad news here.Starting with the very minor things,the bell is superb wonderful clear note,nice action,clever bit of design.The nice big centre stand looks a great advance on the puny side-stand fitted to the old Lafree,but it (literally) falls down in practice by not going far enough ‘over-centre’,leaving the bike vulnerable to rolling forward off the stand.This tends to happen as you finally and triumphantly wrestle a battery out. Gravity being what it is,removing one battery causes the rear of the bike to bob gently up, and if it’s on a slight slope,the stand will fold slowly away,leaving you open mouthed as the S S Twist launches gently forward to roll away into the flowerbed.A change to the stand geometry will cure the problem,and it needs to be done.

The lights are good,but again there are minor niggles.The rear light is a batterypowered LED,with a top-mounted switch that can be easily prodded on with a gloved hand.Unlike the Lafree Comfort,this is not automatic,and ours failed within a week.This could happen to any bike,of course,but for £1,400 you rightly expect the best.

The Spanning a Radius halogen light is controlled from a fiddly little push button on the handlebar ‘dashboard’. This probably looked fine spinning around in 3D too,but with gloved hands,riding on a dark country lane,it’s all too easy to turn the light off as you grope for something else.To get it back on,you have to steer your finger by the little constellation of LEDS and make a stab in the right place.If you’re blinded by car lights,this is near impossible,and quite a dangerous operation.The headlight will also go off if the systems shut down for any reason.This happened to us a couple of times pulling out of junctions, when the motor stuttered then returned,but the light stayed out.The same is true if you change ‘tanks’ on the move – the motor only goes off for a second,but the light stays off until you hit that little switch.Annoying,and potentially dangerous.

In most respects,the light is an improvement on the old dynamo system.Drawing power from the traction battery means it’s always available,so there are no worries when stationary and turning right.Even if both the batteries are flat,Giant reckons there is enough power left to run the light for ten hours.A good system,but the switch needs a rethink.It would be safer to put a nice big chunky light switch safely out of reach (see Sparta).So mixed fortunes here – the new lights are better than the cheapy dynamo lights fitted to the old Lite model,but not as good as the wonderful Busch & Müller automatic lights on the Lafree Comfort.

Elsewhere,it’s nice to see a pump (neatly hidden under the panniers),the wheel lock is great,and the chainguard is functional,but a bit fiddly to remove.The panniers themselves are futuristic sculpted affairs,but as Jane immediately points out,compared to the capacious Bling Bling panniers that have been fixtures on her Lafree since we tested them in A to B54 ,they are too small,and fiddly to use.A4 paperwork fits neatly inside,but you have to scrunch the papers through a letter box slot to get them in.Stylish maybe,but the capacity just isn’t there,and the unusual rack means that normal rigid-backed panniers,such as Carradice or Ortleib,will not fit.If this bike is going to be truly practical for nipping to the shops or commuting,a rethink is needed.

Conclusion

That’s our technical analysis,but most cyclists aren’t interested in whether the battery is a Nimby or a Lion;they just want something that will work and keep working at a reasonable cost.There’s no escaping that the Twist 1.0 will be expensive to run.A £1,400 purchase price,plus an estimated £300 per replacement battery (don’t forget there are two) gives a scary running cost of 12.1p per mile.

We rounded up four Lafree owners to try the new model – would they swap their tired old machine for this shiny new one? The rigid frame and build quality of the bike were much admired,as was the handling,but it was also described as ‘slow’ (this,of course,is somewhat illusory),heavy (again,not entirely fair),and boring.Some came round to it,but grumbles persisted about the small panniers,and problems with upgrading them,the pedals being too far back,the lack of a handle to lift the bike onto the stand,and the price,which was considered way over the top for a Chinese machine,albeit a good one.The fact is,the Twist is closely related to the Giant Suede,but it costs more than twice as much.

It should be a matter of some concern to Giant that only one was willing to swap his old model for £1,400 worth of shiny new bicycle,and he was very unsure.Of course,in some respects,a focus group in love with the old model is bound to be biased from the start.Giant is delighted with the bike’s reception in The Netherlands,where 5,000 are reported to have been sold since November.

The new Twist has some good features,and one or two excellent ones,like the 40mile range,which is more or less unbeatable.But we have a hunch buyers will opt for the 2.0 model instead.This has most of the same features,but is fitted with a pair of (arguably more reliable) NiMH batteries instead of lightweight Li-ion.This means a more reasonable £1,100 for the bike,with running costs of around 8.4p per mile.

Specification

Giant Twist 1.0 £1,400. Weight bicycle 24.9kg batteries 5.2kg total 30.1kg (66lbs). Gears Shimano Nexus. Ratios29″-89″. Wheelbase116cm. BatteryLi-ion. Capacity2 x 270Wh Range40 milesFull charge 7hrs 30min . Fuel Consumption overall 13.5-16.8 Wh/mile Running Costs 12.1p per mile. Manufacturer Giant Bicycles  UK distributor Giant UK Ltd tel 0115 977 5900 mail info@giant-uk.demon.co.uk

A to B 58 – Feb 2007

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Bridgestone Moulton Folding Bike

Bridgestone Moulton Custom Separable

Bridgestone Moulton Folding Bike

The Bridgestone is quite closely modelled on the 1960s machine,but in alloy,with some minor frame alterations

Moulton is unique in the history of cycling.Dr Alex Moulton’s suspended small wheeler kick started the small wheel revolution,made cycling fashionable in ‘60s Britain,and over 40 years later,the basic concept is still in production.

It’s the great survivor:built first by Dr Moulton after Raleigh refused to do a deal;then by Raleigh when they saw how successful it was;sidelined in the 1970s (Dr Moulton says after Raleigh’s corporate head was turned by the success of the high barred Chopper – see page 42); reinvented in the ‘80s as the space frame Moulton,built both in the tiny factory at Bradford on Avon,and in cheaper APB form by Pashley.And 20-odd years later, the space frame Moulton is still with us,with those small wheels and full suspension that have underpinned every single bike with the Moulton badge. Hop over to this web-site for more details.

There’s just one hurdle to owning one of these iconic bikes today.The space frame Moultons are built in tiny numbers by a small team of skilled craftsmen, and they cost a few thousand pounds apiece.There are plenty of wealthy enthusiasts around the world willing to pay that,and for those who can’t or won’t,Pashley offers the TSR range from £895, but that still leaves a gap between the two,and in any case some ‘Moultoneers’ still prefer the simplicity of the original ‘60s Fframe Moulton.

Enter Bridgestone of Japan, which has been building a replicais much more faithful than that.It looks like an exact replica of the original,with the advantage of modern componentry,but there are some key differences.The frame is of aluminium,not steel;the front suspension uses an external hinge rather than internal splines;the rear frame pivot is in a different place;the wheels are 17-inch (369mm) Moulton specials,not the original (349mm) 16s;and no ‘60s Moulton offered an 18-speed derailleur,let alone one made in Japan.Prices start at £975, and the quality looks spot-on.

For some,the thought of a 100% Japanese Moulton might still be too much to swallow,in which case there’s the Custom,and that’s what we test here.The standard Bridgestone bike is wheeled into an annexe of the little factory in Bradford on Avon and treated to upgraded components,plus a whole array of options.So the Custom Separable comes with a polished and lacquered frame,double chainring and adjustable dropbars with STI shifters.The front suspension medium – polymer only in the standard Bridgestone – has a steel spring added,and they claim reduced stiction as a result.Options fitted to the test bike included front rack,large rear rack,bags for both and MSK quick-release pedals.The basic Custom Separable costs £2,175,so even before you add any of these,it’s not cheap.

Just like the original Moulton Stowaway (plus many Moultons since),this one splits in half,though they do a rigid frame version as well.But it’s not intended to compete with modern small-wheeled folders.Instead,say Moulton,just like the ‘60s pioneer,this is a genuine alternative to a big-wheeled bike of the same spec,with the added advantage of a split-in-half frame.Are they right?

On the Road

If you’re particularly big or small,do take a test ride before buying,as there’s only one frame size,and at 5’ 6”,with arms to match,I felt quite stretched out.Thanks to a swivelling stem,there is some adjustment in the drop bars, at 97-100.5cm off the ground,but even with the Brooks saddle slid right forward,the bike still felt big.Still,that’s no problem for taller riders,and there’s also lots of saddle height adjustment,from 101cm to as low as you like.

Some bikes reveal their sporty character within the first few metres,and the Moulton is one of those.Even pedalling away from a dark,wet railway station,it had that get up and go feel that encourages you to push that bit harder and head for the horizon.It’s got fizz and zing,a bit like a Mini Cooper in fact – and that’s a real Mini Cooper,not the bloated pastiche made by BMW.

The Bridgestone is quite closely modelled on the 1960s machine,but in alloy,with some minor frame alterations

…it was great to slip into that 113-inch top gear, allowing 20mph cruising…

This efficient energy transfer comes from a stiff,strong frame that is uncompromised by the fact that it splits in half.Plus the Shimano bits Ultegra and Capreo are near the top of Shimano’s componentry pecking order,which shows in clean,precise gearchanging.The STI shifters will change down two,three or four cogs at a time,which is especially useful on steep hills,and also allow one to trim the big chainwheel.As the Custom is built to order,there’s a choice of ratios,and the test bike’s 928 tooth rear cogs came with 46 and 58-tooth chainwheels,giving 29-89 inches on the small chainwheel,and 40-112 on the big one.There’s also a monster 62-tooth chainwheel, which would deliver 119 inches.

Either way,there’s a cog for all occasions,and while the bottom 29inch isn’t a genuine granny gear,it climbed every hill we tried.There’s a whole folklore about climbing hills on Moultons,with some riders convinced that the front suspension will bob up and down,wasting valuable effort.If you stand on the pedals,pull on the bars and ride aggressively,it will,but sit back and pedal smoothly,and it won’t – simple. At the other end of the scale,it was great to slip into the 113-inch top, allowing (given athletic legs or a following wind) 20mph cruising.Like pedalling with seven league boots on.

Not surprisingly,the Moulton proved to be the fastest non-electric bike tested around our standard 10mile course,at 38 minutes.That put it a decisive nose ahead of the Brompton S2LX,at 41 minutes our previous fastest pedal-powered machine.We’ve never tested a conventional fast tourer,but we doubt it would exceed the Moulton’s average 15.7mph by very much. There is of course another side to all this get …suspension has always been part of the concept… combining the benefits of small wheels with big wheel comfort… up and go.Small wheels do take some acclimatisation,especially when allied with narrow drop bars. The Moulton has a flighty,quicksteering feel – it’s not unstable,but certainly needs more concentration than a big-wheeled bike.And the narrow,high pressure tyres (Bridgestone of course) which roll so freely aren’t well suited to loose surfaces riding off tarmac and straight onto a gravelly Sustrans track resulted in a lurid front wheel slide.Fortunately,good brakes are part of the package,Shimano side-pulls that are light, progressive and powerful.

Full suspension has always been part of the Moulton concept – the whole idea was to combine the benefits of small wheels (strength,acceleration,open frame) with big-wheel comfort.The Bridgestone’s suspension isn’t adjustable like that on Bradford-built Moultons, but the Custom does have that steel spring added to the front polymer.And the whole setup works superbly well,floating over manhole covers and speed humps,and giving you the confidence,despite those hard,narrow tyres,to ride straight over undulations.Not only that,but the single-tube suspension,with its scissor linkage,looks a far more elegant solution than the motorcycle-style front forks fitted to many bikes.The rear suspension consists of a non-adjustable lump of elastomer,which proved much too hard for my 10 stone.

Folding

The Moulton doesn’t fold like a Bike Friday,let alone one of the classic small-wheel folders,but then it was never intended as the sort of bike to slip onto a crowded commuter train.Instead,just like the original Moulton Stowaway,the split-in-half frame makes it easy to fit into the boot of the car (Bentley,in the case of some readers). Splitting the bike is a quick operation. Select top gear and split the three cables via the neat little threaded connectors,then unscrew the big allen bolt in the middle of the frame and gently lift the bike in half.After a couple of practice runs, we were doing this in 20 seconds,plus another 7 seconds to remove the saddle stem and quick-release pedals.The latter slip off after pushing down a spring-loaded collar,and very well they work too.The essential allen key is kept in in a slot underneath the rear rack,which is jolly handy…as long as no one nicks it while you’re around the corner sipping a cappuccino.

Anyway,the result is a bike of two halves. The front half measures 103.5cm long,26cm wide and 55.5cm tall (149 litres or 5.2 cu ft);the rear 101.5 x 53 x 43.5 (234 litres or 8.3 cu ft).Not something to have Brompton quaking in its boots,but still more adaptable than a conventional big-wheeler.We had the whole lot back together in 30 seconds,plus 12 for the saddle and pedals – no doubt more practice would bring a faster time.And once the allen bolt is tightened,the whole thing is as rigid as a solid frame.

Together again,the complete bike tipped our scales at 14.4kg with the racks in place but no bags – Moulton claim 12.1kg with the racks off,which sounds about right.Either way,the Bridgestone Moulton is a bit on the tubby side for such a sporty machine,though oddly it doesn’t feel heavy and slothful on the road – quite the reverse in fact.And according to our 10-mile time,it doesn’t perform that way either.

As on the more expensive Moultons,a small rear rack comes as standard,with a front rack and larger rear as extras,plus bags.Our test bike had the lot.They aren’t as capacious as conventional panniers,but big enough for a few days touring.Both bags slip on and off fairly quickly,thanks to velcro fastenings,so there’s no need to leave them outside the pub. They are waterproof,have external pockets and,best of all,little leather ‘Alex Moulton’ zip pulls.The rear bag does get muddy in wet weather though.

Conclusion

Some riders would never consider buying a Moulton;others would consider nothing else. The Bridgestone’s frame badge proclaims ‘The Spirit of Moulton,’ and it is just that.To all intents and purposes,this is the original Stowaway,but with modern components and superior performance.Forty years on,it’s become a fast,sporty tourer with a long pedigree,plus that elegant front suspension.It’s undeniably expensive in Custom form,and the standard Bridgestone (or Pashley’s TSR) looks better value.But the Moulton,wherever it’s made,is still a unique small-wheeler.

Specification

Bridgestone Moulton Custom Separable £2,175 . Weight 14.4kg (32lbs) . Gears 18-spd Shimano Capreo derailleur . Ratios 29″-113″ . Folded size (front) :L103.5cm W26cm H55.5cm (rear) : L101.5cm W53cm H43.5cm . Folded volume 383 litres (28 cu ft) Wheelbase 115cm . 10-mile circuit 38 mins . Manufacturer Bridgestone/Moulton UK Distributor Alex Moulton Ltd  tel 01225 865895 email mail@alexmoulton.co.uk

A to B 58 – Feb 07

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Reelight SL100 Bicycle Light

Reelight SL100

This is one of those neat ideas that’s been tried before, but somehow the technology was never quite up to the job.This time, with a few caveats, it works rather well. So, how do lights function without any power? Energy has to come from somewhere, of course, and as so often in cycling, the engine is your legs.The principal is similar to most bicycle computer wheel sensors. A magnet is fixed to the wheel spokes (a pair in this case), and as the wheel turns, the magnets whizz past a stationary electrical coil in the back of the lights, producing a pulse of electrical energy. In the old filament lamp days, this would not have produced a tiny glimmer, but with modern ultra-bright LEDs, the output is good, and the extra rolling resistance negligible. Oddly, considering that red LEDs are better understood than white, the front white light is stronger than the rear red.

Reelight SL100 Bicycle Light

Front and rear Reelights. Both lights incorporate reflectors and twin LEDs. Note the large magnet fixed to the spokes

A set of two lamps plus four magnets weighs 240g, which compares well to battery lights, or a dynamo or dynohub system. Is the output comparable? Not as bright, obviously, but very eye-catching, because the lamps flash as the wheel revolves.The magnets should be mounted opposite each other, giving two flashes per wheel revolution – actually, it’s more complicated than this because each light contains two LEDs, and when the magnets pass, these each flash back and forth twice, producing four very quick pulses of light, but it looks like one.

The magnets can be fitted to most spoke layouts.We tried them on Alexander’s 14inch Triang Moulton, which has 20 spokes, and an uneven five pairs per side, so the magnets produce a slightly off-beat flash: light, space, space, light, space. Groovy.

So what are the disadvantages? Obviously at low speed with a big wheeled bike the lights flash rather slowly, and at high speed on a small-wheeler they flash in a frenzied blur. Flashing bicycle lights are now legal in the UK, but only if they flash at 60 – 240 flashes per minute. At 12mph, a 26-inch wheel revolves at about 130rpm, which comes in at just over four flashes per second, so if you go any faster you’re in illegal territory. On a 16-inch folder, you’d reach top flash at a mere 7mph.To make matters worse, the legislative meanies have ordained that a rear light should be at least 350mm above the ground (there’s no minimum front lamp height). As the Reelights fit on the axle, this technically makes the rear light illegal on any bike with sub 26-inch wheels.

Should we worry about all this nonsense? Not really.Think of the Reelight as a back-up system and it’s excellent. On Alexander’s bike they function as Volvo-style ‘day running lights’, particularly useful in the mad people-mover throng outside Manor Park Primary on a foggy winter morning. At 12mph, the little Triang Moulton emits a healthy eight flashes a second, which should wake even the dopiest school-run mum. Rolling resistance is too small to measure, and the only real disadvantage is that the powerful magnets cause the lights to vibrate on their brackets in a rhythmic (or in this case, off-beat) manner.This might annoy, but it might help you to hum a little tune as you bowl merrily along.

Legal things apart, Reelights are ideal for small-wheeled bikes. They fit a Brompton and fold away without any issues, and the high flash rate kicks in at walking pace, and becomes almost steady at speed – there’s certainly enough light to get you home in an emergency. If you want more, you only need to fit more magnets… Reelight also produces the SL120, which emits a steady 120 flashes per minute while in motion, plus a full five minutes standlight capability when you stop.
Reelight SL100 front & rear £28 . SL120 £36 . Derailleur bracket £2 . Spare magnets £7 Danish Manufacturer www.reelight.com . UK Distributor 2pure  tel 0131 448 2884 mail info@2pure.co.uk

A to B 57 – Dec 2006

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Space Invader & DownTube Folding Bikes

Mission Space Invader & Downtube IX FS

Space Invader & DownTube Folding Bikes

With handlebars on the inside, the Space Invader produces a much neater package. The DownTube is wider and more cumbersome.

There was a time, not so long ago when you had to pay quite a lot for a light reliable practical folding bike. To be honest, little has changed, but the cheaper bikes have certainly improved. Some of the equipment may still be a bit dubious, but for £300 you can buy a Chinese bike that does quite a reasonable job. We’ve selected two from the recent crop of imports.The Space Invader is the latest incarnation of the Oyama Victor 1.0, first tested in A to B 44.The derailleur is less sophisticated, but the frame has been beefed up, and the bike costs a whacking 28% less, selling for just £249 in the UK. The DownTube is a relatively new concept, designed in 1996 by US bike shop owner,Yan Lyansky, produced in China, and sold direct to the public (via the ubiquitous eBay) to keep costs down.The result is a range of bikes priced from £249 to £299 ($299 to $329 in the USA). We’ve tested the fullsuspension IX FS, costing £299.

On the Road

Price is closely allied ton the folding bike market, so don’t expect either of these machines to be lightweights. Both have aluminium frames and wheels, but at this level frame material has little effect on weight.This might sound odd, but whereas the high-tec manufacturers will use clever computer design techniques to make frail alloys as thin as possible, the cheapie manufacturers tend to play safe by using a lot of it, particularly in the hinges. The Space Invader weighs 13kg (29lb), which isn’t too bad for a bike with a stand and full mudguards. But with front and rear suspension, the DownTube weighs a much more substantial 14.3kg (32lb). Only the very muscular would contemplate running for a train with either of these bikes under their arm, so if weight is an issue, read no further – you probably need to spend a bit more.

The Space Invader is equipped with Shimano’s cheapest derailleur, the SIS, now in 7-speed form, but still offering a disappointing 200% range (in other words, top gear is twice as high as “…neither bike is very quick, bottom). In this case, bottom gear is 32″ and but the Space Invader is certainly top gear 64″, which sounds pretty limiting. It the quicker of the two… is, but – in town, at least – the bike makes up for the limited gears with sharp steering and a lively, nifty character. It looks and feels fun to ride, until you find that your legs are spinning like mad and you’re still only doing 15mph. But it’s surprising how far and how fast you can go with a 64″ gear, and the change is pleasingly clunky and positive.

DownTube has chosen the Sunrace JuJu M90, which we’re not familiar with, but it looks slightly down-market, thanks to carbon fibre-effect paintwork on the mechanism. Strangely, the label (key parts are helpfully labelled) identifies the material as magnesium. Whatever it’s made of, it works well enough in a rather vague, woolly way, giving nine speeds from 28″ to 81″. Gears are the strongest element of the DownTube package.The JuJu is claimed to be the cheapest 9-speed folder in the world, which sounds unlikely, but seems to be true – you certainly get a lot of gears for the money.The tie-up with Sunrace means the company will also be selling a Sturmey Archer 8-speed version from early 2007.

On paper, the DownTube promises considerable advantages – a wider gear range (289% against 200%), more gears (nine against seven) and that full suspension. But where money is tight, less really can mean more, and in this case, although everyone fought over the DownTube initially, most defected to the Space Invader after a few rides. It just feels more lively.This might have something to do with the lighter weight, but it’s probably more about tyres. Both bikes use Kenda, which are almost universal on cheap Chinese-made machines, but the Space Invader rides on sprightly 32-406mm tyres, while the DownTube, rather oddly, comes with a 40-406mm on the front, and a slightly knobbly 47-406mm on the rear. All the tyres are rated at 65psi, but the Space Invader’s 32mm tyres seem to roll much better. Our new test hill (hopefully calibrated to match the old one) confirmed that neither bike is very quick, but the Space Invader is certainly the quicker of the two, recording a speed of 12.8mph, while the odd mixture of wider tyres on the DownTube held it back to 10.2mph. For comparison, a good 20-inch bike should hit 15-16mph, and a good 16-inch bike, 14-15mph. Incidentally, we hear a whisper that Dahon is unhappy about our claim (A to B 55), that the 16-inch Brompton S2L-X rolled marginally better than its 20inch MuSL.Ten years ago, 20inch bikes had a real advantage, but apart from smoothing out the bumps, the differential seems to have narrowed quite considerably today.

These 20-inch bikes are much slower than the Mu or the Brompton, but again In terms of numbers, the crude SIS there’s a marked difference between the must be one of the most successful derailleurs ever produced two. Riding our new 10 mile commuter circuit (again, we hope it’s “…The Space Invader recorded comparable), the Space Invader recorded a creditable time of 45 minutes… the a creditable time of 45 minutes, despite DownTube a lethargic 491/2…” being unable to capitalise on a strong tailwind on the outward leg. Riding back into a headwind, the little 7-speed gradually overhauled a twenty-eight-zillion gear MTB.

With more gears, the Downtube should have done better downwind, but it proved slower throughout, recording a lethargic time of 49 minutes 30 seconds. On one long uphill drag, the bike came perilously close to being passed by a jogger…

Handling is neither dangerous nor exciting on either bike, which is probably all you need to know. Both feel solid and dependable, but there’s a little play in the Space Invader stem hinge, and the pivot bush is a bit frail, so the movement can only get worse. Both have a 109cm wheelbase, which is typical for this sort of folding bike, and long enough to avoid choppiness and instability.The steering bearings were rather tight on the Downtube, which caused some low speed problems.This is easily adjusted, but it’s annoying to have to do this with a new machine. Both bikes needed their gears and brakes set up – not a problem with the Space Invader, which will usually be bought through a dealer, but DownTube bikes are sold on eBay in the UK, so a man will turn up with a box and you’ll have to make it work yourself. Once properly adjusted, the V-brakes on both machines worked well, although with a pronounced squeal from the front of the DownTube.

Kerb Hopping

This is where the DownTube comes into its own.The bike has fairly rigid rear suspension, but the front forks (borrowed from the junior MTB world) offer 50mm of travel without noticeable damping.This makes for great entertainment – pogo-ing at the traffic lights, plonking up and down kerbs, or pelting along fire trails, but the lack of control is less useful if you’re riding hard, when energy is wasted bouncing the bike. And in seriously rough conditions, those horrible tyres are too smooth for useful traction, the derailleur is only 7cm from the ground, and the heavy, cumbersome frame awkward to manoeuvre. Needless to say, the willowy Space Invader neither looks nor feels like an off-road machine, but then it doesn’t pretend to be.

Fit and Equipment

The DownTube should fit more or less anyone.The saddle extends from a low 79cm to a very high 108cm, and the bars from 97cm to 106cm, but you’re unlikely to use the extremes. Adjustable bars are probably more trouble than they’re worth on cheap machines.There’s quite a weight penalty, and in this case the crude clamp left a rusty stain and scored the alloy stem, which both looks unsightly and weakens a critical area. In any event, the bike comes with bar-ends, which effectively do much the same thing The as height-adjustable handlebars, JuJu has a vague and woolly accommodating a number of gear change, but offers a good range for the price riding styles.

In the equipment department, the bar-ends are about all you get.The DownTube has no pump, mudguards, stand, rack (the mountings are there though) or bell (now a legal requirement on new bikes in the UK).The Space Invader has practical, effective alloy mudguards, a bell and a stand.The handlebar stem is steel, and non-adjustable (which is probably a blessing), giving a fixed height of 105cm.This is a little on the high side, but great for riding in town.The saddle goes as low as you like, or up to 100cm, which will be too low for the really tall.

Folding

The Space Invader wins easily here.The fixed height bars fold neatly to the left, ending up between the wheels, the hinges are simple (the frame has a liftable safety pin) and fairly easy on the fingers, and the bike comes together quickly and neatly. Folding pedals are the near universal ‘Next’ pattern, which are strangely unbranded, save for the helpful legend ‘do not trap fingers’ in English and Chinese. As these are sold in pairs, and the Chinese like symmetry, the bike has two, but folding the right one will only slow you up, because it makes no difference to the folded package.Width is an admirable 37cm (narrower than most Dahons), height is a reasonable 64cm (less if you remove the saddle stem) and length is around 85cm.The folded package doesn’t lock together, but the volume of 210 litres (7.1 cu ft) is excellent. Not quite the smallest in class, but close to it.

By contrast, everything goes wrong with the DownTube.The bars fold to the right, ending up outside the package, and the height adjuster has to be fiddled with to get the bar-ends parallel with the wheels.The chunky frame hinge and less substantial bar hinge have spring-loaded safety catches as well as clamps, which is a nice touch, but the very wide front forks fold round and clank against the rear wheel.This results in one of the widest folding bikes we’ve ever measured, at 50cm. Both height and length are above average too, at 66cm and 88cm respectively, producing a package of 290 litres (10 cubic feet). As nothing locks in place, the bike constantly threatens to unfold in a heap and the bar ends prod you in the privates. This unwieldy 14kg lump must be carried very carefully. If you’re looking for something that will fold once in a while, either of these bikes will suffice, but only the Space Invader can really claim to be train friendly.The DownTube is not the sort of thing your fellow commuters will be happy about.

Conclusion

If you get the feeling we prefer the Space Invader, you’re right, but only because we look at everything from a sensible, practical point of view. It’s cheaper, lighter, faster, and makes you feel cheerful, without giving you a wet bottom in damp weather.The gearing is a bit on the low side, but it all works well enough. At this price, there’s lots of competition these days, but not many of them could be considered practical commuter machines. Best of the bunch are the badge-engineered ‘old model’ Dahons, such as the Philips Boardwalk and Ridgeback Impulse.The Space Invader competes well with these. The DownTube is an interesting paradox. It’s cheap, and offers lots of gears for the price, but it’s let down by weight, the indifferent fold and slothful performance. On the other hand, if you want suspension on a folding bike, it’s less than a third of the price of the equivalent Birdy, and with some good quality (ie free-rolling) knobbly tyres, it could make a neat little train-able mild off-road machine.We’d be interested to try the 8-speed Sturmey Archer version too, but not with these tyres.

Specification

DownTube IX FS £299 . Weight 14.3kg (32lbs) . Gears JuJu M90 9-spd derailleur Ratios 28″-81″ . Wheelbase 109cm . Manufacturer DownTube tel +1 (215) 245 4032 mail yan@downtube.com

Oyama Space Invader £249 . Weight 13kg (29lbs) . Gears Shimano SIS 7-spd derailleur Ratios 32″-64″ . Wheelbase 109cm . Manufacturer Oyama . UK Distributor Mission Cycles tel 01622 815615  mail info@missioncycles.co.uk

A to B 57 – Dec 2006

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Powacycle Windsor Electric Bike Review

Powacycle Windsor

Powacycle Windsor Electric Bike ReviewNothing stands still,especially in the world of electric bikes.Not so long ago,buyers who couldn’t afford the £850+ for a basic Giant Lafree were faced with a huge choice of cheaper alternatives,all of them heavy,slow and relatively crude. That looks like changing,with a new breed of bikes in the £500-£600 range,of which Giant’s own Suede is the most obvious example.And these cheaper bikes are getting better:the Suede is expected to be relaunched in 2007 with a freewheel in the motor, the lack of which was one of our biggest criticisms. None are as sophisticated as the purely pedelec Lafree,but the new generation all make use of Nickel-Metal Hydride (NiMH) batteries,which weigh about half as much as traditional lead-acids, and they are finally starting to come down in price as production volumes increase. The Powacycle Windsor is one such,and at £499 appears to tick most of the right boxes.It’s got a NiMH battery,aluminium step-through frame,smart black wheel rims,Vbrakes and a sturdy rack. And it weighs 23.7kg – slightly less than claimed,and lighter than almost anything except the basic Lafree. There’s been a fairly obvious attempt to give it a Lafree sort of look,and in a chunky,less elegant way, they’ve succeeded. If there’s a drawback,it’s that the Windsor’s battery is a relatively puny 192 watt/hours (the Ezee range,for example,offer 324 watt/hours) so it won’t be burning any tarmac.

Stately Performance

Still,that’s very much in keeping with the Windsor’s appearance,which suggests genteel potters to Thameside shops rather than pounding the mean streets of Bristol or London.Ladies who lunch will love it,but they might find the riding position a bit odd the bottom bracket is mounted a couple of inches further back than usual,so your feet keep slipping forward on the pedals,though the wide,pull-back bars are comfy.The saddle is a large squishy item that feels quite pleasant at first,but gets to be a pain after a dozen miles or so. Progress is stately.The Windsor,like many electric bikes,gives riders the choice of both pedelec (power comes in when you pedal) and twistgrip control,though in this case the throttle gives a power boost over and above pedelec mode.At least,that’s the theory,and using the twistgrip certainly draws extra energy from the battery,though the effect is pretty subtle.The motor is whisper-quiet,and the power delivery so gentle that one could be forgiven for forgetting that this bike has any power assistance at all. That illusion was soon dispelled by riding into town without the battery,which made it clear that the Powacycle’s motor is doing some useful work.But there’s none of the playful thrustiness of an Ezee – it’s more like having a gentle wind at your back all the time. That’s all very nice,but don’t expect to waft along at an effortless 15mph or more – the Powacycle motor has given its all by 13mph. Despite this,it climbs hills surprisingly well,needing only light pedal assistance to keep up a steady 8-10mph on moderate inclines.The gears help,a cheapo Shimano 6-speed derailleur that offers a 37-73 inch range.That’s not bad,but it would be nice to have a lower first when stuck with a flat batt in hilly country, and keen types will find that top gear runs out of cadence at 16-17mph.

…A range of 25 miles isn’t at all bad… and miles better than Powacycle would have you believe…

In town,we tended to use the twistgrip just for pulling away,especially up hills,for which it comes in very useful.Pedelec power doesn’t waft in until walking pace,so the twistgrip gives extra pulling away confidence from red lights and the like.As ever with the cruder type of pedelec sensor,power continues for a second or so after you stop pedalling,which can be alarming,if not dangerous,if you’re not ready for it.

Speaking of flat batteries,Powacycle claims a 13-17 mile range for the Windsor,‘with gentle pedalling on a flat surface.’ As most range claims have as much to do with truth as Enron’s accounts department, that comes over as exceedingly modest. And it is. Starting out from Dorchester with a full battery,we made it to Sherborne (20.5 miles) with plenty of power left over. Admittedly,we were only using the twistgrip on hills (of which there were only a couple),our average was a leisurely 12.3mph and we had a good strong tailwind,but even so…

Next morning, the 3-LED system finally flashed on to ‘Empty’ at 21.5 miles,and at 24.6 power became intermittent on the twistgrip – a bit like a moped running out of fuel,if you’ve ever experienced that
Like the Lafree, the Windsor draws its styling from the classic ladies roadster. A comfortable position and decent luggage carrying ability

a genuine battery capacity of around 190 watt/hours, which is even more amazing…

Powacycle Windsor Electric Bike Power Consumption

The solid purple line shows twistgrip power consumption,and the dotted line,pedelec power only.For comparison,the blue line is for the Giant Lafree 3-spd - faster and noticeably more powerful

 

the pedelec following suit at 26.1.Professor Pivot tells us this intermittent power is due to a rather crude low voltage cut-out,which cuts in again immediately as the voltage rises. This cutting on and off is apparently bad for both electronics and battery,so at the first sign of this,it’s best to switch off the electrics and rely on pedal power alone.

A range of close on 25 miles isn’t at all bad for such a small battery,and miles better than Powacycle would have you believe.But just to be sure,we gave it a tougher test the following day,an 18-mile round trip, with some big hills and the sort of wind that’s always against you.Despite using the full twistgrip power wherever possible, speed was down to 11.9mph,and the trip almost flattened the battery.But the range was still better than Powacycle’s claim,with the Empty light staying on at 18.5 miles,and the cut-out cutting-in a mile later.

One interesting point is that the power didn’t get noticeably more feeble when the battery was low, and the first warning sign (you can’t see the three LEDs from the saddle) was that intermittent running.In any case,the three LED display is less than informative,the ‘Full’ light disappearing within a couple of miles. Powacycle claim a 4-6 hour charge time,which seems optimistic when you see the size of the diddy charger.This gets quite hot, though it managed a full recharge in 5 hours 10mins. Once again,this is bang in the middle of the importer’s claim,and suggests a genuine battery capacity of around 190 watt/hours,which is even more amazing.

The Bicycle

As a bicycle,the Windsor is quite pleasant,with its relaxed riding position (we got used to the backwards bottom bracket after a while).There isn’t enough saddle adjustment (86-96cm) for six-footers,though the handlebars can be swivelled between 94-99cm,and the Windsor is physically bigger than all but the biggest Lafree.

It’s very stable too,even at 38mph down a long steep hill,and the 6-speed derailleur might be cheap,but it works well enough.The cheap V-brakes are what you’d expect,and once again,they do the job without any great finesse,but what really concerned us were the suspension forks.As forks,they soak up the bumps quite well,and are especially good at wafting over speed humps. But those on the test bike had an alarming amount of play.Peel back the loose fitting gaiter, and you can see just how bad a fit the plastic bush is in the fork.They judder badly under heavy braking,and if bicycles had to pass an MOT, these would have brought an instant failure. If it’s impossible to supply decent suspension forks at the price,they shouldn’t be there at all. Ordinary forks would be stronger and could save up to a kilogram – useful in a market where weight competition is becoming very keen.

The rest of the Windsor’s equipment tells a happier tale. The rear rack looks strong,and doesn’t come with bungees but has plenty of hook points,there’s a useful kickstand,a proper bell,a chainguard,full mudguards and chunky looking Kenda 26 x 1.75 tyres,which seemed to roll along well.On the other hand,you don’t get lights,the brake levers aren’t span-adjustable and the battery lock consists of a spigot that pokes through a hole in the plastic battery casing,which doesn’t inspire much confidence.The battery is easy to slide in and out,unlike some we could mention,and one nice point is that Powacycle offer a second battery for a very reasonable £99. At that price (and given that the battery weighs only 3.7kg) it would be worth making this a twobattery bike,with a theoretical range of 50-odd miles.

The low purchase price,reasonable range and economical battery replacement combine to give running costs of 4.8p per mile – the lowest we’ve measured in ten years of electric bike testing.That’s very significant.

…running costs of 4.8p per mile – the lowest we’ve seen in ten years. That’s very significant…

A to B Fact File

POWACYCLE Never heard of Powacycle? Neither had we until a few months ago.The company is part of Ultima Networks,which supplies computers and electronics and was set up in 1979.It seems the Chairman has an interest in green issues and alternative transport,and decided to import electric bikes after seeing them in use in China. The first bikes arrived in August last year and by November the company was specifying changes to the Chinese manufacturers.For example,the early batteries had kettle type three-pin sockets, so they could mistakenly have been connected directly to the mains;these have now been changed to small circular sockets. According to Wazz Mughal of Powacycle, the company sold 15,000 bikes in its first 12 months,and they’re aiming at 20,000 in the next twelve,on a turnover of £1 million. Until now,most have been sold direct to the public,but a dealer network is being built up. As they say,watch this space…

Verdict

There’s no doubt that the Windsor is slower and less sophisticated than an Ezee or the now defunct Lafree.We proved this the hard way when we allowed 20 minutes to reach a remote station – a schedule that should have been easy for an electric bike – and missed the train by a full five minutes.But at £499 ready to roll,the Windsor is a real step forward from the old lead-acid dinosaurs of the past,making NiMH light weight technology genuinely affordable.Of course,the price is reflected in the componentry (especially those forks) but it should make electric bikes more accessible to more people, which has to be good news for all of us.

Specification

Powacycle Windsor£499 . Weight Bicycle 21kg Battery 3.7kg . Total 24.7kg (54lbs) . Gears Shimano SIS 6-spd derailleur . Ratios37″-73″ . Wheelbase117cm . BatteriesNiMH Capacity192Wh . Spare battery£99 . Range 19.5 miles . Full charge5hrs 10mins Fuel Consumption Overall 11.5Wh/mile . Running Costs4.8p per mile . Manufacturer Powacycle tel 01279 821243 mail info@powacycle.co.uk

Peter Henshaw

A to B 56 – Oct 2006

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Sinclair A-Bike vs Mobiky Genius

Sinclair A-Bike v Mobiky Genius

A-Bike A to B magazineSinclair A-Bike versus Mobiky Genius
FIRST PUBLISHED 2006

For decades, engineers have poured time, effort and money (usually other people’s) into designing a better folding bike. The Brompton broke radically new ground in the early 1990s by combining excellent rideability with a compact package, and this combination has remained the gold standard ever since. Just for the record, a Brompton can be ridden more than 50 miles in a day, and fold as small as three cubic feet, or 90 litres for Euro-people. It weighs 9.7 – 12.5kg, according to model.

Unbeatable? Well, yes and no. The Brompton is relatively heavy, and – as these micro-folder manufacturers are quick to point out – we don’t all need to ride 50 miles in a day. Most commuter rides are a couple of miles,and some even less. Surely,a lighter, simpler, more compact machine would suit many users?

Quite by chance, two have arrived at once: the Mobiky Genius is designed in France and manufactured in the Far East. From London (but manufactured in Malaysia) we have an advance sample of Sir Clive Sinclair’s long awaited A-bike.

Design

A-Bike chain layout, A to B magazine

The A-bike has a double reduction chain drive. The primary chain is conventional, but the secondary uses a micro-pitch chain. Note the quality bearings and the rather frail casing.

sinclair a-bike sprocket

The tiny drive sprocket in the rear wheel. Note the reflector and rather awkward valve.

mobiky genius versus A-bikeBoth of these machines look like stylish, sophisticated urban transport tools, and for some people, that’s more than enough, whether they work or not. The A-bike, in particular, is cheap (£199) and sufficiently compact to be artfully posed as a loft-living object d’art. As a folded package it’s as neat and homogeneous as a folded Brompton. Unfolded, it’s rather less successful, appearing somewhat spindly and frail. It also looks like a bike without any wheels, because where you expect to see wheels, there are two six- inch rubber diskettes. Yup, those are your wheels.

The Genius is rather less satisfactory folded.The bits don’t come together so neatly, and it produces a big untidy package, but unfold it and you’ve got a relatively normal bicycle with a 97cm wheelbase, sitting on (relatively) conventional 12½” wheels.

Both bikes get around the small- wheel gearing problem with double reduction drives to spin the tiny wheels at a reasonable rate. The Genius uses a 3-speed hub and conventional chain and sprockets, which look rather over-engineered in this application. It’s hard to understand why they bothered, because a 54- tooth chain ring and 13-tooth sprocket would have achieved the same thing for a lot less weight and cost, without increasing the size of the folded bike (although it would have needed a chain tensioner when folded).

The first chainset gives a reduction of 2.36:1 and the second 1.75:1. With 12½” tyres (more like 12″ in reality), and the Sturmey Archer hub, the gears come out at 37″,50″ and 66″ – a bit on the low side, but more or less conventional. Anyone wanting higher gears can simply change the final 16-tooth sprocket for something smaller.

The A-bike is altogether more sophisticated. The primary reduction is by conventional chain (oddly 1/8″ width rather than the narrower 3/32″), but the secondary reduction uses a dinky micro-pitch chain, making the drive lighter and more compact. The result of all this technology is a whacking 6.8:1 gear reduction, and a single 41-inch gear. This is painfully low, but a necessary compromise. Sprocket sizes are 14-tooth and 8-tooth on the primary drive, and 35-tooth and 9-tooth on the secondary. An A-bike ridden predominantly on the flat could certainly pull a higher gear, but space is tight, so there’s little or nothing that can be done to change the ratio. The wheels, layshaft and bottom bracket use ball bearings throughout, but the bearings are a fairly loose push-fit in plastic housings which twist under load. Time will tell whether this light, simple system survives.

A-bike and Genius on the Road

A-bike A to B magazine

Cornering on the A-Bike has to be a measured affair. Unless you sit well forward there’s little weight on the tyre.

A-bike, A to B magazine

Riding the A-Bike one handed can be tricky.

The Genius is a pleasant surprise. The concertina folding design opens out into a long, low and rather comfortable bike. The 12½” tyres work surprisingly well, despite a lowly pressure rating of 35psi. These tyres are still rare,but there’s no doubt this size has a future. The Genius’ Cheng Shin tyres are a chunky 2¼” wide, giving a supple ride with reasonable rolling resistance. We managed a roll-down speed of 11.6mph on our test hill, which is the sort of result we might have expected from a 16-inch bike a decade or so ago.

The gears feel ‘grown up’, despite the lowish range, and well up to a modest commute. We rode our 10-mile commuter test course in 45 minutes, which is only a few minutes off the ‘big folder’ pace. The frame is wonderfully rigid, thanks to some seriously over-engineered bits and pieces and ball bearings, no less, in the frame joints. There has to be a penalty, and in this case it’s a bike weighing 14.1kg – one of the heaviest folders we’ve ever tried. No, you wouldn’t want to carry it far, but under duress we would be willing to ride the Genius for 15 or 20 miles.

So much for 12½” tyres! The A bike has 6-inch tyre s,and it’s hard to understand why designer Alex Kalogroulis chose this size over say, 8-inch. Slightly larger wheels would have added very little to weight and folded size, but improved the ride quality no end.

Well, it’s clearly not going to be well placed in the Tour de France, but is the A-bike up to a daily commute? To find out, we did quite a bit of fettling to get the thing rolling properly. To be fair, our bike is a pre-production prototype, but it arrived with a number of high-friction faults; rubbing brakes (of which more later), a tight, dry chain and squidgy tyres. The tyres are rated at 90psi, and you need every pound in the rear, if not the front. Connecting a track pump nozzle to the constricted Schrader valves is difficult, but when you do, 90psi comes up in three full strokes. Very useful, but if you pause for a microsecond in disconnecting the pump, most of it comes out again. Incidentally, these tiny tyres have conventional tubes, so the puncture repair procedure should be familiar.

Wheel removal is easy at the front, but at the back you can get in quite a tangle with the brake band and chain. Adjusting the secondary chain means removing the front wheel, reaching in, removing eight allen screws and rotating the bearing housings. As there are only three tension options, you may find – as we did – that the choice is between overtight causing too much friction, or over-loose, allowing the chain to jump under load. Even getting at the (non-adjustable) primary chain and freewheel means splitting the chain case, which essentially involves dismantling the whole bike. Clearly chain adjustment is a long-winded and tedious job.

A-bike A to B magazine

Unlike the Genius, the A-bike is a seriously lightweight machine, weighing just 5.7kg, exactly as claimed. To achieve this headline figure, they’ve used some clever materials in clever ways, but the bottom line is a rather wobbly frame. There’s an 85kg weight limit, but even those safely below this will feel the frame flex as they climb aboard. Press on the pedals and the bottom bracket twists and squirms. You get used to this, but the flexy frame and stictiony headset bearings tend to result in a wobbly ride at first. With a 74cm wheelbase, and the saddle over the back wheel, the only safe riding position is to sit right on the nose, leaning well forward. Relax and you’ll be off the back before you’ve realised what’s happening.

Once under way and up to cruising speed, the ride is quite good if you avoid potholes and rough, broken surfaces. The official line from the manufacturers is that cyclists instinctively avoid potholes anyway. This is true, but if you are faced with a kerb, a pothole and two white vans passing at 60mph, you’ll probably go for the pothole. That’s unpleasant on a conventional bike, and survivable on a 16-inch folder, but with 6-inch wheels, it isn’t an option. Consequently, you have to watch the road with particular care and keep escape routes in mind.

If you can find a decent surface, the 6-inch wheels do surprisingly well, although the bike stopped some way short on our test hill, despite all the fiddling to make it roll better. You don’t notice too much on the road though. A bigger problem is friction in the crude plastic headset bushes. Small wheels need to make rapid changes of direction, and friction in the steering doesn’t help. After a few miles, the grumbles became aches and pains caused by the peculiar geometry of the triangular frame. With a maximum saddle height of 92cm, a high bottom bracket, and 140mm cranks, you’d need the legs of a leprechaun to find a comfortable straight-leg riding position.

Ah yes, the saddle. The problem here is that it’s shaped for folding rather than riding, with a big cut out at the back and a rather high and solid nose. If you have a bottom this shape, you’ll be a medical curiosity, and we couldn’t find anyone willing to sit on it for very long. The need to sit well forward tends to put you on the nose of the saddle, throwing a lot of weight onto the handlebars, straining the lower arms and putting a bit of a kink in the neck. If you suffer on a normal bike, you are unlikely to be comfortable on this one.

So how far did we ride? Showing true grit and determination, we completed our 10-mile commuter run in a slow, but by no means disastrous 66 minutes – an average of 9mph. With a 40″ gear, it’s hardly surprising that the A-bike managed to climb all the modest (sub 10%) hills on our circuit, but despite all the wobbles, it was surprisingly easy to ride out of the saddle. This brought the bonus of blessed relief from riding in the saddle. Record-breaking runs aside, we think the practical range for a nicely run-in example with well-inflated tyres, would be about two miles. Top speed? If you need to ask, sir, you’re buying the wrong bike. Cruising speed is in the 8-10mph zone (making our 9mph, 10-mile ride quite good going), but with some super cadence and great concentration, we managed to accelerate the A-bike to 15mph on the flat.This takes nerves of steel, a good surface and strong legs. The rear tyre gets quite warm after a few miles, which shows where much of your effort is going. But to be fair, small tyres show the heat more than big ones.

Cornering on the Sinclair has to be a measured affair. Unless you sit well forward there’s little weight on the front tyre 66 minutes – an average of 9mph. With a 40″ gear, it’s hardly surprising that the A-bike managed to climb all the modest (sub 10%) hills on our circuit, but despite all the wobbles, it was surprisingly easy to ride out of the saddle. This brought the bonus of blessed relief from riding in the saddle. Record-breaking runs aside, we think the practical range for a nicely run-in example with well-inflated tyres, would be about two miles. Top speed? If you need to ask, sir, you’re buying the wrong bike. Cruising speed is in the 8-10mph zone (making our 9mph, 10-mile ride quite good going), but with some super cadence and great concentration, we managed to accelerate the A-bike to 15mph on the flat. This takes nerves of steel, a good surface and strong legs. The rear tyre gets quite warm after a few miles, which shows where much of your effort is going.But to be fair, small tyres show the heat more than big ones.

Equipment

Mobiky Genius versus A-bike

The Genius front disk brake.

Brakes on micro-bikes tend to be poor, and this pair are very typical. The Genius has a classic Chinese combination of band brake at the rear and cable operated disc at the front. They are appalling. The rear band brake has a convoluted cable run and can just about manage 0.3G going forward, which is enough to lock the wheel in dry conditions. In reverse (holding the bike on a hill, for example) the braking force more or less evaporates, and in the wet (reproduced this hot, dry summer with a watering can), the force is about halved. None of this would matter too much if the stylish front disc brake was any good, but it’s a wonderful example of style over substance. To stop the brake binding you need to slacken the adjuster until the pads hardly bite. Testing the brakes thus with our handy G-meter the bike ran off the end of the car park, depositing the tester in a patch of nettles. Reset with binding brakes, we managed a pathetic best stop of 0.25G, which is positively dangerous for a front brake. The only good news is that things don’t get much worse in the wet, so once you’ve acclimatised, there should be no nasty surprises in store.

A-Bike brake, A to B magazine

The band brakes on the A-Bike are delightfully minimalist, but efficiency is marginal, especially in the wet.

By contrast, the A-bike’s little band brakes work quite well. Both suffered from binding bands initially, but once properly set, worked well. Best stop from the front is a passable 0.45G, and from the back, 0.3G, which is just enough to lock the wheel. As with the rear band on the Genius, the effectiveness is more or less halved in the wet. The open design means that water is more likely to get in, but on the other hand it’s more likely to dry out too. Shielded band brakes can stay moist and unpredictable for days. The A-bike gets a very cautious thumbs up in the braking department, but neither bike would be up to the cut and thrust of city traffic on a damp February morning. Both bikes have mudguards, but they’re too short to keep you dry, especially the vestigial ‘dodo wings’ on the Sinclair. And we all know what happened to the dodo. The Sinclair does at least have enclosed chains, but there’s a big gap underneath and the chains share the enclosure with the rear tyre, so it’s guaranteed to fill with salt and grit in the wet. Carry-bags are standard accessories with both bikes. The A-bike pops into a neat shoulder bag, with a smaller compartment for carrying tiny luggage, which looks useful. The Genius bag is huge, but with no shoulder strap you’re supposed to lift the 14.1kg bike with two straps on the top of a tall bag. Smaller folk will find this impossible.

Folding

Both bikes score very highly here. The A-bike looks tricky, but it’s a logical process and if you get stuck there’s an excellent manual written by someone whose first language appears to be English. You start by pressing a button on the ‘crosspiece’, which hinges upwards, bringing the wheels together, where they clip neatly in place. Then the handlebars rotates through 180 degrees, leaving the bars facing backwards ,and you whip off a pair of quick releases and press four buttons (easier than it sounds) allowing the frame tubes to telescope downwards. As the tubes drop,the saddle stem automatically folds down and clips into place. Apart from the folding pedals and hinging down the handlebars, neither of which are essential, that’s about it.

A-Bike, A to B magazine

The difference in folded size is quite striking.

For the novice, the operation takes about 20 seconds, but we saw an experienced member of the A-bike crew fold the bike in seven seconds. Unfolding will be a little slower because of the need to tighten the two frame quick-releases (the saddle height should not need adjustment). Incidentally, if you forget, the bike is still rideable, which may turn out to be a problem in practice, but then it may not. It all depends how stupid the Great British Public turn out to be.

We made the folded size a little more than the manufacturers’ claim: 67cm tall, 33cm deep and 17cm wide, but that still gives an incredible folded volume of 37.6 litres or 1.33 cubic feet. Sinclair claims that the folded A-bike is a third the size of the Brompton, and that’s more or less true. And carrying that 5.7kg (12 1 / 2 lb) package will be easy over modest distances.

A-bike versus Mobiky Genius, A to B magazineIf anything, the Genius is even easier to fold. The scissor-style frame is held in either the up or down position by a single metal rod resting on the rear frame. When you’re riding, this takes your weight. Lift the bike by its central carry-handle and the rod prevents the frame closing up until it’s pushed towards the chunky saddle stem. With the rod out of engagement, a lift on the handle brings the frame and wheels together. Finally, a quick-release lowers the saddle,and you lift a pair of buttons like trumpet valves to fold the bars down. Time is broadly similar to the A-bike,but at 14.1kg (31lb) the resulting lump is very nearly three times the weight.

Once folded, the Genius can be wheeled around in collapsed form, which is useful at a busy station for example – but sooner or later you will have to lift it, and many people would be unable to lift this bike into a car boot.

Conclusion

The micro folder is an intriguing concept. There are many occasions where a Brompton or Dahon is too darn big for the job, and these clever designs promise to fill the gap between micro-scooter and grown-up folding bike.

Do they succeed? Not very well. Despite their undoubted attributes, both these bikes come unstuck for different reasons. The Genius can tackle longish rides and modest hills almost like a ‘proper’ folder, but when folded it’s significantly bigger, heavier and clumsier than a Brompton. You could forgive this if it was half the price, but at £499 it’s well into Brompton territory.

The £199 A-bike is a bit more realistic, but the performance is closer to the microscooter end of the market. On paper, the A-bike seems to fill that scooter/bike gap very well, but the practical range of a mile or two is not a great deal more than a lighter, cheaper and more compact micro-scooter can achieve. If your trip to the tube station is right on that limit, you may well disagree – the Sinclair certainly does have an application, but we think it might be rather narrowly defined.

Would we buy either bike? No. The Genius is too heavy and with the A-bike it comes down to safety. We do sometimes ride a micro-scooter to our local station. It won’t even look at potholes or rough surfaces, but it nips along the pavement reasonably well, jumps over obstacles and folds to nothing on the train. The A-bike has to share the road with 40-tonners, mad phone-wielding reps, killer potholes and all the other unpleasantnesses of modern travel. We’re comfortable with 4-inch wheels on the pavement, but very nervous about 6-inch wheels on the road. The A-bike is oddly reminiscent of the C5 – a superb idea, quite well executed, but impractical in the real world.

Update: The A-Bike City (£299.99) with 8-inch wheels was introduced in 2010, but we don’t expect this to significantly improve the overall performance.

Folding Bike Specifications

Sinclair A-Bike Mobiky Genius
Price £199 £499
Weight 5.7kg (12½ lbs) 14.1kg (31 lbs)
Gears Single Speed.
Ratio 40″
3-speed Sturmey Archer.
Ratios 37″, 50″, 66″
Folded Size H67cm L33cm W17cm H78cm L67cm W30cm
Folded Volume 37.6 ltr (1.33 cu ft) 156.8 ltr (5.5 cu ft)
Wheelbase 74cm 97cm
Coasting Speed Failed 11.6mph
10-mile Circuit 66 mins 45 mins
Manufacturer Daka Mobiky
UK Distributor Mayhem Magic Bikes

A to B 55 – August 2006

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Brompton S2L-X vs Dahon Mu SL

Dahon Mu SL v Brompton S2L-X

Brompton S2L-X Folding BikeWhy would anyone want to pay much, much more for a lightweight folding bike? We get asked this quite often by big burly types.There are two primary markets,the obvious one being smaller people looking for something light and easy to hoik up into a car boot for leisure rides.The other is much more interesting stuff,and goes right to the heart of what we’re about and what we believe,because a lightweight folding bike takes the user into a new world of seamless, effortless integrated transport. Once you’ve ridden one of these bikes on city streets,hopping on and off, and vaulting onto trams and trains, you will be hooked. In the leisure market, a kilogramme here or there is of little consequence, but if your folding bike is your primary means of transport, you too will be prepared to pay big money to make it as light and convenient as possible. These are the lightest bikes around,if we omit custom Bike Fridays and esoteric folders like the Sinclair A-bike.We’ve tested both the S2L-X and Mu before in slightly different form.The Mu replaces the lightweight Helios SL we tried in August 2004 ( A to B43 ), we had a brief go on the Brompton S2L-X in April 2005 ( A to B47 ) and have since built our own super-lightweight derivative ( A to B49 ). Here we test them together for the first time. Is there are a clear best buy?

Fun to Ride

Lightweight bikes are undeniably fun to ride,but the widely held belief that they offer higher speed and nippier acceleration is mostly myth. If a bike weighs 12kg and the rider 70kg, reducing the weight of the bike by 2kg will shave little more than 2% off the gross weight,so performance will be broadly the same.But these bikes certainly feel faster than their more portly cousins.Why? No doubt there’s a psychological effect here: these lightweight machines feel sharper,and presumably that sportier feel encourages more spirited riding.

..in the world of Brompton oneupmanship, this bike has it all… but a passerby would never know…

Both are derived from standard models in production for decades, but the S2L-X and SL couldn’t be more different.The Brompton is neat and understated,the only obviously sporty feature being the low,straight ‘S’ type handlebars.But in the world of Brompton oneupmanship, this bike has it all:titanium seat pillar,rear frame,front forks and mudguard stays,Schwalbe Stelvio tyres,Jagwire cables,and a few other rarefied bits,although a passerby would never know.Concessions? It’s a normal Brompton in every respect, with full wet weather gear,front luggage carrier and everything else (except standard lights), but the S2L-X has only two gears,and they’re quite close ratios.You can fit wider ratios if you want ( A to B52 ),or choose from any of Brompton’s gear options (1,3 or 6 gears), but the single-speed is a bit limiting,and the others add weight,so the 2-speed is probably the best compromise.Like all Brompton variants,it has 16-inch tyres,which at 349mm, are almost 17-inch,and noticeably bigger than the 305mm ‘16-inch’ tyres common on Far Eastern bikes. The Mu SL looks pretty conventional too.Like the Brompton it has Stelvio tyres,but these are the next size up – 406mm or 20-inch.The bike has eight derailleur gears, but where Dahons are usually well equipped,the downside of the lightweight variant is a somewhat stripped down feel.The SL has no stand and no mudguards,which presumably won’t matter if it never rains again. More important,if you are hoping to do practical things with it, there’s no system for carrying luggage.

Dahon Mu-SL Folding BikeOn the Road

Considering how different they are,the two bikes feel remarkably similar on the road.Both are rigid (the Brompton through those lower bars and the Dahon through a sturdier frame,stem and hinges),and both feel lithe and sporty.In traffic the Brompton’s 2-speed is slicker and easier than Dahon’s SRAM derailleur, but with a choice of only 56″ and 74″ gears,the Brompton can lag behind on hills.The Dahon has eight well-chosen ratios,from 31″ to 89″,which sounds like a clear advantage,but both these bikes respond well to standing out of the saddle on hills,so the lower gears are not as essential as they might sound. Presumably the bigger-wheeled Dahon rolls further and faster? As we were testing identical tyres,we went to some trouble to set the tyre pressures the same (60psi front and the maximum of 85psi rear) and test in identical conditions,but to our surprise the Brompton coasted slightly better,hitting 15mph against 14.7mph. The answer, presumably,is in the riding position.The ‘S’

…don’t go assuming that bigger wheels are better… Clearly they aren’t…

type bars are quite low,whereas those on the Mu give a more comfortable upright position. This increases the wind resistance enough to overshadow the slight bonus of the bigger wheels.Strange but true. Put these factors together and there’s another surprise.On our 10-mile commuter run the little Brompton was marginally faster,at 40 minutes against 41 minutes.It’s quite a flat circuit,so hills don’t really enter the equation,and at 15mph we aren’t riding particularly fast.Obviously hills and/or speed would tend to benefit the bigger bike,but don’t go assuming that bigger wheels are necessarily better.Clearly they aren’t. Although both these bikes are fun to ride and both nip along very efficiently, neither is particularly comfortable.The Dahon’s bigger wheels give a less choppy,more relaxed ride, but the handlebar grips stop the blood flowing to your fingers after a few miles.The Brompton counters with rear suspension, but we didn’t like the low‘S’ type handlebars which put far too much weight on your arms.

Folding

All right,we won’t keep you in suspense any longer…The Dahon is the lighter of the two,but at 9.5kg (21lb), it’s noticeably heavier than the 2004 Helios SL. On the other hand,it’s noticeably tougher too.The Helios was fitted with Rolf wheels which were said to be quite problematic, and it was certainly weaker around the hinge,stem and frame than the Mu,which feels a lovely solid machine.The Brompton weighs 9.7kg,exactly the same as the early production example we tried in April 2005. With folding, the honours definitely go the other way, as one might expect. We usually quote a folded size of 85 litres or 3 cubic feet for the Brompton. This is certainly achievable for smaller people, but if you prefer the saddle back and/or up,or you’ve fiddled with the handlebars or

…folding the Dahon is much simpler, and in this bulkier guise, any idiot should be able to master it…

brake levers,the folded size will grow. Set up for a typical rider of 5’ 9″,our test bike occupied 97 litres,or 3.4 cubic feet. Fit a taller seat pillar and the volume can exceed 106 litres (3.7 cubic feet). But against almost every other folder on the market,it’s unbeatable,and the folded package clips together really well.This makes it easier to carry and you can even sit on the folded bike on a crowded train, which is a real bonus. (If you fancy trying this,put the saddle stem right down and lock it with the saddle turned at an angle to create a comfy bottom-shaped seat out of the frame tube.) By contrast the Mu folds into quite a big package,and is noticeably longer than the older Helios.At 68cm it’s the same height, but 5cm longer (85cm) and 3cm wider (43cm). This results in a package of 249 litres or 8.8 cubic feet,which is big by any standards.On the other hand, the little magnetic catches that hold the frame halves together really work on this bike,where on more‘compact’ Dahons they never really make contact. Folding and unfolding the Brompton is easy once you’ve learnt the fold order,but can be confusing if you haven’t.The fiendishly clever folding pedal in particular (many folding bikes have two,but most,like the Brompton,only need one) can cause all sorts of aggravation for the inexperienced. Folding the Dahon is much simpler, and in this bulkier guise,any idiot should be able to master it.The magnets lightly clip the frame shut,and the handlebars fold down outside the package and are locked by a little plastic clip.But you do have to be careful,because if you miss the clip,the bars will clonk into the stem, which can be nasty. Once the Dahon is fully folded, you remove the MKS MTE demountable pedals (note, as above,that only one really needs to come off).These weigh 150g apiece, or 25g less than the MKS Promenade pedals fitted to the Helios.Demountable pedals are good and bad in equal measure.They pop off easily, leaving very little sticking out of the cranks,but the shafts are greasy,and you have to put them somewhere safe or the bike is rendered completely useless.On the other hand,the Dahon is a useful 300g lighter without them, so you only need to carry 9.2kg in one chunk.

Conclusion

We hate to be wimpy and weedy on this crucial question,but it really does depend what you want a folding bike for.The truth is,they’re both very good in their way… At £800,the Mu SL is much cheaper than the Brompton,which costs a delightfully precise £1,007.The Dahon is lighter too. For leisure rides where you don’t intend to carry more than a day bag,it’s a fine machine for the price. On the other hand, the Brompton S2L-X folds quickly and repeatably to less than half the size and is a much less cumbersome package on trains and buses.For a very small weight penalty,it comes fully equipped (except for lights),and it appears to be marginally the quickest of the two.

Specifications

Brompton S2L-X £1,007 .Weight 9.9kg (22lbs) . Gears 2-speed . Ratio 56”,74” . Folded Size H64.5cm L57.5cm W 2 8 . 5 c m . Folded Vo l u m e 96.7ltr (3.4 cu ft) .Wheelbase 105 c m Coasting Speed 15.0 mph. 10-mile Circuit 40 mins . Manufacturer Brompton Bicycle tel 0208 232 8484

Dahon Mu SL £800 .Weight 9.5kg (21lbs) . Gears 8-speed SRAM derailleur . Ratios 31-89″ Folded Siz e H68cm L85cm W43cm . Folded Volume 249ltr (8.8 cu ft) .Wheelbase 102 cm Coasting Speed 14.7mph . 10-mile Circuit 41 mins . Manufacturer Dahon Folding Bikes  mail sales@dahon.co.uk. UK distributor Fisher Outdoor Leisure  tel 01727 798345 mail sales@fisheroutdoor.co.uk

A to B 55 – Aug 2006

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Brompton Folding Bike 10 Speed

Brompton Gear Range

Brompton Folding Bike 10 Speed

Brompton 10-speed! Sturmey 5-speed hub, Brompton 2-speed shifter and adapted Highpath sprockets

Brompton Gear Range ‘Could the Brompton be ‘easily’ redesigned to take wider,more conventional hubs? The rear drop-out spacing is under 115mm,whereas ‘normal’ hubs are 135mm (with 145mm normal in the USA).As the Brompton folds to the right, the extra width might only be 10mm or so. Could the hinge be widened by 5mm? Are there other design elements that would have to change?’ Simon Avakian, Palo Alto,California USA

‘I have a new 2×6-speed S-type Brompton with a Schlumpf Speed Drive which I am very satisfied with. But the gear range is only just acceptable – my wish would be gears from 2m to 10m (25″ to 125″).I can’t help dreaming of a Brompton with a Rohloff Speed Hub without widening the rear frame. I have seen a German MTB-site where the Rohloff hub gear is mounted in the frame instead of the rear wheel.’

Jon Dreyer Rensmoen,Norway

Several engineers have stretched the Brompton rear frame to accept wider hubs, such as the Nexus 8speed and even the 12-speed Rohloff.There’s no need to alter the hinge,and as Simon suggests,the bike emerges little wider than normal.It might even be possible to fit the hub elsewhere,but these are heavy and expensive conversions,and for most purposes it’s debatable whether either would be worthwhile.Surely we can come up with a lighter, cheaper and more elegant solution?

Let’s look at the proprietory equipment that can easily be fitted to the Brompton and try mixing and matching these bits and pieces to produce a widerange system.The widest range hub that can be fitted without serious engineering is the 5-speed SturmeyArcher,which is now back in production, although not fitted as standard by Brompton,as it once was.This hub has a limited 225% range,but it’s light and cheap,and we can extend the range by fitting dual chainrings (which don’t work well on the

..Is this the way Brompton will go? A10-speed would certainly satisfy the critics…

Brompton) or dual sprockets,which do.Fitting Brompton’s own 2-speed derailleur to a Sturmey 5-speed widens the range to 260%,which is useful,but hardly ground-breaking. For the really big gears we need something like the Highpath 12/18 tooth conversion.This is designed for use on the roomier SRAM 3-speed hub,but with a bit of machining it is possible to squeeze one onto a Sturmey 5-speed.

This combination gives a gear range of 337%;more than any hub gear except the expensive Rohloff,and without the weight and complication of fitting a crank-mounted Speed Drive.The idiosyncrasies of gearing mean that the bike is really a 7-speed,because three ratios are almost identical: it’s best to think of the conversion as a 5-speed with two extra gears at the bottom (or the top).Using the Brompton 44-tooth chainring,the gears emerge as: 41″,49″, 62″,79″, 93″ in the high range,and 27″,32″,41″,52″ and 62″ in the low.A smaller 40-tooth chainring would give gears of 25″ to 85″.We haven’t produced Jon’s 500% range,but we have done quite well for a weight penalty of only 200g or so.

To my surprise,the prototype system works more or less without grumbles or adjustment.In practice,one tends to leave the bike in the low range or high range for quite long periods, using the 2-speed changer only when a more extreme gear is needed.

The bad news is that a 10-speed would be quite difficult to make at present. Highpath has wisely opted not to produce a thinner and weaker sprocket,and it’s unlikely Sturmey will offer to produce a wider ‘driver’ on its 5-speed hub!

Is this the way Brompton will ultimately go? A 10-speed would certainly provide enough range to satisfy the critics,and the company could introduce one very quickly.

A to B 55 – Aug 2006

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Brompton vs Birdy vs Bike Friday

Brompton v Birdy v Bike Friday Folding Bike ReviewDecisions, decisions, decisions… You know how it is, life’s treated you well, and you’ve settled on a Roller for best, and a Bentley for , you know, just pottering. But where do you find a matching folding bike? And what criteria do you use? Andrew Hague takes up the story, while Laila models the bikes…

Here are three folders,all modified and all with the 14-speed Rohloff gears,V-brakes and Schmidt hub dynamos (not shown in the summer photos).Which is best? I believe that a folding bike should fold in twenty seconds, fit easily into a car boot and be suitable for a hundred-mile ride. Originally,I had a Brompton with a Sturmey 5-speed, Schlumpf Mountain drive and conventional Brompton brakes and although it did all I wanted it to do, I thought there might be something better.

The Bike Friday

I fell for the Bike Friday propaganda, ordered a NewWorld Tourist with a Rohloff 14-speed hub and V-brakes,and went to Oregon to collect it. Find engagement rings stores near me and I fell in love with the rings, the Shimano brakes and the H-handlebars, but the rest of the bike was disappointing.The claim from Bike Friday was that it would ride like a big-wheeled bike and fold into a suitcase in 30 seconds.All of that proved wrong.Small wheels can never ride as well as big wheels.The Friday folds in a few seconds but is still big.To get it into a suitcase it has to be dismantled and that takes an hour;in that time any bike can be dismantled and put in a case.If Bike Friday know how to do it quicker they are keeping it a secret;there are no instructions. The Friday had to be completely rebuilt to be reliable.The Rohloff’s gear cables were replaced by an external assembly because the cables could not move in the tight bends of the Friday’s design.By rerouting the cables and making a stainless steel guide at the bottom bracket,gear changing and folding became easier. The bronze bearings in the hinges shattered in less than a year, letting the hinges distort.I made and press-fitted mild steel ones with lots of grease,and these have remained trouble-free.Proper mudguards were fitted and the shoddy assembly of the bike corrected;it is now rideable. The initial fold is quick.The chain does now not come off and the gear cable doesn’t snag.It just fits in the boot of my Bentley Continental,but if the pedals are the wrong way around the lid won’t close.The boot of my Rolls-Royce is much bigger,but this is not a car I can park anywhere whilst out on the bike! The best bag system of any folder can be found on the Brompton,so I asked Bike Friday to fit it and sent them the braze-on boss.When I got to their factory in Eugene, they had made no attempt to fit it.Instead they supplied a pannier carrier and a pair of absolutely water-tight Vaude bags.This works,but it wasn’t what I ordered.

Birdy

The Birdy Grey is an example of design for design’s sake.From the novelty of the folding front forks with soft springs comes a soft,energy absorbing ride and dangerously unstable steering.The geometry is all wrong: to move the saddle forward I made the aluminium adaptation shown in the photo of the seat post.The handlebar stem was of fixed height and position,which might suit someone,but certainly not me,so I made stainless steel H-bars and an adjustable stem.I can do this with my own workshop but it is beyond the scope of most cyclists and bike shops so I wonder how many satisfied Birdy owners there really are. I rode this bike in France and Austria where I climbed the Grossglockner Pass but on one of the descents the wires of the rear Schwalbe Stelvio tyre snapped at about 50mph. Although smaller than the Friday and fitting easier into the car boot, the folding is messy,the tool bag has to be removed before a fold and the chain always comes off,meaning dirty fingers later on.The Birdy brochures promote their bikes as serious tourers,but that is an unjustified claim.

Brompton

The Brompton in comparison is a modest machine.Although the company admits its bikes are in use all around the world,they are sold as commuting bikes.In fact, they are much more,and can do anything.With the Friday and Birdy equipped with Rohloff hubs and Vbrakes,and a Brompton with a Sturmey hub and side-pull callipers,I realized that the ideal folder had to be an upgraded Brompton. I bought a new L3 for the conversion,and in my opinion,this is now better than the other two bikes in almost every way.Of the three bikes in their ex-factory state, only the Brompton with its 3-speed Sturmey was suitable for a hundred-mile ride,so bad were the faults on the Friday and Birdy. This proves the excellence of the Brompton geometry and the thorough thinking that has resulted in a design that includes a folding pedal,bag,and lights that don’t clash with folding.When folded, the Brompton chain never comes off and lies between the wheels,meaning clean legs and fingers.I made a Brompton trailer-bike for my daughter and bought another Brompton for my wife.All three fit into the Bentley boot.No other bike is so neat and rideable.

The Brompton is the cheapest, and superficially – the crudest of the three. Not so, says Andrew Hague, and the family now have a Brompton each…

Contacts

Brompton Bicycle  www.bromptonbicycle.co.uk tel 0207 232 8484
Birdy web www.r-m.de tel +49 6151 366 86-0
Bike Friday (UK agent) Avon Valley  www.foldingbikes.co.uk tel 01225 442442
Bentley Motors  www.bentleymotors.com tel 0808 100 5200

A to B 55 – Aug 2006

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Ezee Torq Electric Bike

Ezee Torq: Long-Term Test

There’s something slightly surreal about doing moped speeds on something that looks, sounds and feels just like a bicycle. But that’s the Ezee Torq all over – despite being the fastest e-bike you can buy, it doesn’t look like one. If you look hard, there is a motor in the front wheel, but there’s no massive battery (as in the Powabyke) or sensible chain guard and step-through frame (Giant Lafree). It’s quiet too, the motor giving just a subtle whine when working hard, so it doesn’t give away it’s electric credentials too easily.Which is why it’s so much fun to ride.
Ezee Torq Electric Bike
I’ve been using A to B’s Ezee Torq test bike for the past two months, and though I haven’t covered a huge distance in that time (just over 300 miles), it’s been out and about regularly, on everything from short shopping trips to a 40-mile round trip that I would usually make by motorcycle, although that run did necessitate a battery top-up on the way. It has also had a hard life, u n d e r going the usual A to B test regime and carrying an injured charity rider from London-Paris last year.

The best thing about the Torq of course, is its sheer speed. People have an odd reaction to this, once they know that our prototype Torq will exceed the legal e-bike maximum by a whole 7mph (production bikes are, apparently, restricted). ‘How do you get away with it?’ is the usual response. That is the perfect time to point out that the market is also awash with cars and motorcycles capable of twice the 70mph legal limit, and which are freely promoted in the mainstream media. In any case, although that 22mph top speed is what grabs the headlines, the real point of the Torq is its strong hill climbing, and ability to maintain 20mph+ on the flat, giving it great long distance stamina.

Take the 141/2 miles between my front door and A to B Towers. A nice ride on a conventional bicycle, say 90 minutes, plus a good pub stop on the way. On our Giant Lafree, we’d expect to take just over an hour, with a five-minute stop.The Ezee does it in 49 minu t e s , without stopping, and that really bring home how the extra margin of performance pushes the range of cycling well into car territory.

Here’s another example. I had to make a business trip 14 miles away.The obvious choice was train, with a five-mile cycle ride, but the Ezee actually worked out quicker, though it did run out of puff a mile from home. On another occasion, I covered 37 miles between the office, car dealers and various errands, though the bike did get a 30-minu t e top-up en ro u t e, and didn’t quite make it back under its own steam. But the point is that I wouldn’t have contemplated a day like that on my pedal cycle, and getting the motorbike out would have seemed like overkill.The Torq re a l ly does extend the range of electric bikes.

Of course, all this grunt has to be paid for, and despite the latest Lithium-Ion battery, I’ve sometimes had the yellow light come on (there are three of them, traffic light style) at 21 miles, with the red following two miles later and a complete cut-out soon after. Fortunately, at 24kg, the Torq isn’t too much of an effort to pedal home manually. And there is more mileage on tap, if you can resist using all that power. Riding with a Giant Lafree, keeping below 15mph and putting in some leg work, I’ve had 41 miles out of a charge.The trouble is, riding the Torq at those speeds isn’t easy.Very little happens until the twistgrip is about 3/4 through its travel, and all the action takes place between there and 7/8. So keeping pace with a 12-14mph e-bike takes the form of a series of lurches.

Letting the Torq loose in town concentrates the mind wonderfully, because you’re travelling faster and looking further ahead, much as you would on a 30mph moped, which shows up the deficiencies of having no suspension and bicycle brakes.The V-brakes are adequate by pedal standards, but repeated stops from the 15-20mph zone doesn’t do much for block life. Something else you need to be aware of in town is that twisting the grip doesn’t deliver instant power. For safety reasons, the manufacturers have engineered a throttle lag of about a second, followed by a smooth It’s and gradual increase in urge. Still, at least you do those boots get power from zero mph, which is a real help again! (No, when pulling out of busy junctions, honestly, it’s the especially uphill. Some e-bikes refuse to only photo we had).The Torq give any help until you’re up to walking looks quite pace, and it’s surprising how long conventional those two seconds seem when edging into a busy thoroughfare…

But to be honest, the Torq feels more at home on the open road. It’s a bit like a racehorse with very long legs; only really able to get into its stride when faced with a long stretch of good going. In fact, the long-legged analogy fits the test bike quite well, as it has sky-high gearing (slightly reduced on production machines).As the December 2005 A to B test showed, top was an astronomical 133 inches, and this is the first bike I’ve ever ridden with a comfortable cadence at 30mph! The tall gearing and high speeds give the Torq an unstoppable express train sort of feel, something underlined by the 28inch wheels and long wheelbase. At least it seems long, but at 118.5cm is only 15mm (about half an inch) more than that of a mediumframe Giant Lafree. It feels long, anyway.

Now mention the Ezee brand to one or two bike dealers, and there’s much regretful inward sucking of breath.And it’s true that the Sprint did go through a bad patch in the early days, thanks to a supplier switching to plastic gears in the motor.These failed rapidly, and the company moved back to steel gears almost as fast. But A to B hasn’t been inundated with failure reports from Sprint owners, and so far, the long-term Ezee Sprint has been completely reliable.

So there it is. The world’s fastest electric bike is also a useful day to day machine, and it’s certainly extended my range before I get the motorbike out. The revolution continues!

Ezee Torq £1,200 . UK distributor 50 Cycles  tel 01223 844166

A to B 54 – June 2006

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Brompton Back-Pack

Brompton Back-Pack

From my very first days of owning a Brompton I scoured the catalogues looking for desirable accessories that could turn a promising piece of ironmongery into a really useful piece of equipment. Eazy-wheels gave shopping tro l l ey roll-ability, while the B-Bag seemed to offer a defence against baggage handlers, but where was the rucksack? Surely someone, somewhere would produce a practical rucksack. But I never found one.

Brompton Back-PackAnd then Brompton produced the titanium bikes, and the urge to upgrade got the better of me. I bought an S2L-X.This much lighter machine simply cried out to be carried, and as I couldn’t buy a rucksack to carry the Brompton, I decided to make one myself instead.

Designing a rucksack from scratch is a difficult process. Making one is virtually impossible. So the first step was to find an existing model that could be easily adapted to suit. Conventional rucksacks with their internal frames had little to offer and for a while I was stumped.Then came the breakthrough. I was looking for a frame that would carry a precious cargo weighing about 11kg.What other precious cargo came in that sort of size? Yes, children!! Very quickly I found the perfect rucksack in the form of the Vaude ‘Jolly Light’ Childcarrier.

The Vaude Child Carrier is a really excellent piece of kit. But all that I needed from it was the frame. Extracting that could not have been simpler.All I had to do was remove two bolts and undo a couple of straps.The rucksack frame was well capable of supporting the Brompton, but the next challenge was how to get them to mate  together.After much head scratching I finally concluded that the base of the folded  Brompton needed to be flattened in some way, and the most logical way to do that was to fit a rear rack. I then needed to flatten the rucksack base, and the best way to do that was to attach a simple plywood plate.The rack would then sit on the base just like books on a shelf.

…if a rucksack hangs from your shoulders… you will soon have back problems…

At this point I probably need to get a bit technical. Modern rucksacks do not hang from your shoulders. If that happens, the weight will be taken by your backbone and soon you will have back problems.A well designed rucksack takes the weight and transfers it to your pelvis using a hip belt. The Vaude is an excellent frame and does this brilliantly. Its balance is very good, but because the centre of mass of the bike is a fair way behind you, there is a moment to be balanced and that is done by the shoulder straps. So there will be a significant pull on the straps, but it will be backwards rather than downwards.

The rucksack base plate is very simple to make and fit. It consists of a piece of 10mm plywood, 36cm by 16cm. Cut a 40mm diameter hole centrally through it, 4cm in from the left-hand side. Now place the Brompton onto the plate with the seat stem located in the hole and fit two plastic blocks (the type used for self-assembly furniture) inside the frame to stop it sliding off. If you have Eazy-wheels fitted to your rack, then you will need to cut out a couple of notches to accommodate them too.The plate is then attached to the frame using 15mm copper pipe saddle clips. A coat of paint probably helps it to look a bit less like a DIY job at this stage.

In use, the Brompton is placed on the base plate, locating by the plastic blocks and the saddle stem passing through the hole.There are already two buckles at the top of the frame, and I use an old trouser belt which winds around the bicycle frame and can be drawn up reasonably tight with the buckles.The weight of the bike is carried by the base plate; this top strap is simply to stop it falling backwards.

Practical?

My bike weighs about 11.5kg, and the rucksack 1.5kg, making 13kg (29lb). If you can carry 13kg, the next question is whether 13kg of Brompton is any more difficult to manage than a normal 13kg rucksack! To find the answers I met up with Jo in Dorset. Jo, now retired, is a fit lady and had just returned from walking the Dales Way. Normally she carries a pack weighing 7kg (15lb), so this was a good test.We hiked for 41/2 miles along the Corton Ridge, the inland section of the South West Coast Path by the Hardy Monument. Jo remarked that it was more comfortable than she had expected.

I am actually quite a fit walker and often carry heavy rucksacks, so 13kg should be no problem. S tarting at Rhossili in South Wales, I rode the six miles to Port Eynon and then backpacked the bike back along seven miles of glorious limestone coast. C a rrying food and drink was overcome by using Lowepro Street & Field packs fixed to my waistbelt, which worked perfectly. Other items can be hung or fixed to the bike frame using velcro, clips or straps.The saddlebag that holds the Brompton cover is excellent for odds and ends.

The bike can be protected and disguised simply by fitting the Brompton cover.You will need to cut two one-inch vertical slots through the cloth to accommodate the strap, but it works very well.With the cover in place passers-by have no idea what you are carrying – only that it’s large! The bike proved to be just as easy to carry as a conventional rucksack, but I would recommend using walking poles. My intention is to use the bike to climb hills and then descend by another route.Typically, about ten miles on foot, then cycle back to the start!

A to B 54 – June 2006

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SP Brompton Luggage Post

Brompton Luggage Post

SP Brompton Luggage PostFIRST PUBLISHED A to B 53 – April 2006

Good ideas arrive on our doorstep almost every day. For all sorts of reasons, some are not quite as good as they first appear. Maybe too heavy, too fiddly, or not unusually, a solution to a problem that doesn’t exist. But you can generally rely on Steve Parry of SP Bicycles to come up with a practical, useable good idea. Anyone who knows the Brompton luggage system will know that it’s both clever and practical – a selection of large, medium and small panniers that click-fit onto the front of the bicycle. Once you’ve got used to something this effective, you’ll want to fit the panniers to other bikes, but the click-fit block is Brompton-specific, so you can’t, or at least, not very easily. 38

Steve Parry’s latest accessory is a Luggage Post; effectively a Brompton luggage block mounted on a short stem fixed to a seatpost rack clamp.These clamps will fit any size of seat post, from the oversize Dahon and Brompton posts down to the full range of conventional posts.You can either mount the Luggage Post behind a Brompton and carry panniers front and rear, or whip it onto just about anything else, making the Brompton luggage panniers more or less universal.

…a Brompton luggage block mounted on a short stem fixed to a clamp…

In Practice

SP Brompton Luggage PostA quick flick through our transitory bike collection revealed that the SP Luggage Post will fit most small-wheeled bikes, from Moultons and Micros to the Airframe, plus the majority of full-size bikes, provided they have enough clearance between the rack and saddle.The only real problem is that a suspension seat-post will probably get in the way. An advantage with smallwheelers is that the block can be fitted very low down, putting the load rather lower than it would be on a big bike, helping to keep things stable. On some bikes, the Luggage Post can be lowered until some of the weight is carried on the rack – a good idea if you are intending to carry a lot of weight (Brompton suggest a maximum of 10kg for the block itself, but we’d suggest keeping below 8kg). On the Brompton, folding is more or less unaffected. Loosen the quick-release on the Luggage Post, swing it forward, and you end up with a folded package a little taller than normal. In 30 seconds or so, the post can be removed and refitted upside down, leaving the bike more or less as compact as any other.The weight penalty of 480g, complete with fittings, is a modest price to pay for such versatility.

Conclusion

Whether you own a Brompton or not, this is an effective bit of kit. The cost depends on what you already have: The Luggage Post costs £50, a Brompton carrier block another £15, and a suitable Brompton pannier bag £32 to £50. This is one of those rare accessories that leave you wondering how you survived before the postman dropped it through the letterbox. Very, very useful.

Brompton Luggage Post £50
Weight 480g
Max Load (estimated) <8kg
Seat Post Size 25-33mm
Manufacturer SP Bicycles
tel 01934 516158
mail spbicycles@btopenworld.com

A to B 53 – April 2006

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Birdy Folding Bike

Birdy 2006

Birdy Folding Bike‘It goes like the wind’: my initial somewhat subjective assessment of the new Birdy as I cycled across Westminster Bridge in London three days before Christmas last year. Would I feel as happy after the honeymoon period? The new Birdy was announced last September at various German cycling shows and a pre-production example was on display at the London Cycle Show in October. So what’s changed from the old model? The most obvious difference is a completely new frame. Instead of the angular rather unconventional look, the new frame is two pieces of shaped aluminium welded together. Riese and Müller, the manufacturers, call it a ‘monocoque frame’ welded together using ‘robotic technology’. The lines are much cleaner and the overall look much more twentyfirst century than the old model. R & M claim that the new bike is marginally lighter (140g less) and has a stiffer frame.

New colours; old gear options

On the old Birdy, the colours were model and specific, but as an optional extra you can choose from the list of five colours.There are four models: 24-speed SRAM 3 x 8, Shimano 8-speed Nexus, Shimano Deore 9-speed derailleur and Rohloff 14-speed hub. Other components have changed, some for the better: a higher quality handlebar stem hinge; both optional stems are now height adjustable; the cable runs are inside the frame and so on. However, some changes are less convincing: Cheaper Avid brakes instead of Shimano Capreo for example.The new colours are bold: orange, blue (nearly purple), grey, cream and black. You either love them or hate them! Black probably looks best, as most of the add-ons mudguards, rack, etc – come in black too.

…How is it? Very fast is my first reaction and perfect for my needs…

Positives

I placed my order in October and Simpsons of Kentish Town, London – my excellent local dealer and A to B advertiser – took delivery in December. So how is it? Very fast is my initial reaction. And perfect for my needs. Every day I cycle 16 miles into London and return by train. A Brompton can do this and I have made the trip on a Brompton many times. But on a Birdy it is a breeze, particularly with the Rohloff gears.Whatever the situation, it is always in the right gear. This is not my first Birdy (I sold my previous Birdy Black through A to B last year). So where does the new Birdy deliver against the old? It is fast and performs well – ideal for a longer commute and potentially for touring too (touring panniers are available). It has good acceleration and is excellent at hill climbing.The suspension is a bonus on London’s rather variable roads. Folding can be divided into four stages: front wheel, back wheel, seat post and handlebars. The hub gear makes folding as easy as the Brompton (it’s slightly more difficult on the derailleur versions) but the folded package is not quite as neat. South West Trains, not renowned for being cycle friendly, give no problems during the rush-hour, even with the Birdy uncovered!

The niggles

As with any new model there are a few things that don’t work as they should. The worst is the problem with getting the seat post to stay where you want it. It doesn’t move much but it shouldn’t move at all! The new clamp looks much neater but seems not to perform as well. Riese & Müller is looking into this! The small piece of metal to protect the frame from the chain when folded fell off after 100 miles.The jury is still out on the new Marathon Racer tyres.These are faster and lighter than previous Marathon variants, but two punctures in the first 200 miles does not augur well.The tyres look good but seem painfully thin and cost a fiver more than the often criticised Birdy own-brand tyres they replace (although I personally had no problems with them on my old Birdy).

…the Racer tyres are faster and lighter, but two punctures in 200 miles does not auger well…

Great if you fit the niche…or my commute the new Birdy is ideal and apart from the niggles above I am very happy with it. Of course, the competition is stiff out there, as every issue of A to B reminds us. Personally I think it provides a better ride than both the Brompton and various Dahon models. But it can cost a lot more too (apart from the basic Birdy Red which is still based on the old frame).And it doesn’t fold quite as neatly as the Brompton nor has such a good luggage system.The Birdy fits a fairly niche market and if you fit that niche, it’s perfect. If not, you might be better with something else. In the end it depends on your needs and the depth of your pocket. If you can afford it and it fulfils your needs it is a great bike.

Birdy Specification

Birdy Red (old frame) 8-speed Shimano Deore £830 . Birdy Touring £1,080 – orange, with 3×8-speed Shimano Intego derailleur . Birdy City £1,000 – cream, with 8-speed Nexus hub . Birdy Speed £1,340 – grey, with 9-speed Shimano Deore XT derailleur . Birdy Rohloff £1,950 – blue, with 14-speed hub Folded size 79cm x 61cm x 36cm. . Weight Birdy Speed weighs 10.4kg (23lb). The others are around 1kg more . Accessories mudguards and various racks extra . Other accessories include a bag, rucksack, lighting and kickstand. Off-road and Sch walbe Big Apple tyres are also available Manufacturer Riese and Müller GmbH www.r-m.de mail team@r-m.de . UK distributor None, but a limited number of specialist stockists.

Andrew Croggon

A to B 53 – April 2006

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Airframe 8-speed

Airframe Folding Bike 8-speedOne wonders what goes on in the boardrooms of folding bike manufacturers. Are board members instructed never to mention the ‘B’ word? Or do they ritually stick pins in plasticine models of the Brentford Folder? The fact is – and we might as well get this over with – the Brompton is more or less unassailable in terms of practicality, ride and foldability.We’ve never seen a bike come close: a few 20-inch big wheelers are faster (not all though), a handful of machines have a rudimentary luggage carrying system, and some fold quite well, but the Brompton scores at least 8/10 in all these areas, so it can’t be beaten. Not yet, anyway. To successfully compete against the wunder-fahrrad, you need a machine that is significantly cheaper (certain Dahons and others), faster  (Bike Friday and Airnimal), or that exploit the Brompton’s primary weakness – its limited gear range.

Wisely, Airframe manufacturer Silkmead has gone for the latter course, upgrading from the lacklustre 4-speed Nexus to an 8-speed Sturmey Archer hub gear. We tested the 4-speed Airframe relatively recently (October 2002), so we won’t dwell on the things that haven’t changed.The main advance is with the hub – the Sturmey only weighs 100g more than the Nexus, but gear range increases from 184% to 305%, which is a lot more than the broadest Brompton option.The Sturmey 8-speed needs careful adjustment, and a degree of precision in the gear change, but once you’ve got the hang of it, the drive feels light and efficient. Our own early test sample has a weakness in Gear 6, and the Airframe has a tendency to slip out of Gear 7 after a few miles. Clearly, it’s the sort of mechanism where each gear has its own character and good and indifferent days… Gear selection isn’t helped by the Airframe’s unusual in-frame cables which put the gripshift at a funny angle, so you can’t see the gear selector window.

…the disconcerting creaks and groans have  all gone…

Quirks aside, the 8-speed gives the Airframe a wider range than almost any other folding bike on the road.With a bottom gear of 27″ and top of 83″, it makes the Mezzo, Brompton and most Dahons look like seafront Airframe makes quite a boulevard cruisers.

The Sturmey is unusual, providing quite close ratios in the intermediate gears, but a big jump down to 1st and up to 8th. Generally, this works well, giving plenty of close gears for fiddly variable gradients plus a good low first (it’s also a more efficient direct drive, which helps) when the going gets tougher.

Although greatly improved, the Airframe itself is still a bit flexible.The disconcerting creaks and groans of the prototype have gone, and the frame is much more resistant to twisting, but if you expect everything to stay put without a millimetre of ‘give’, you’ll still be disappointed. Riding technique helps here – the best method is to sit lightly on the saddle and twirl the pedals – advice that holds true for most folding bikes, but especially for the more flexible ones. The only real disappointment on the road is the tyres.The Airframe is a gentle, soft, feminine machine, and quite unsuited to the rather stodgy ‘Wellington boot’ Schwalbe Marathon tyres.They feel hard and uncompromising, recording a roll-down speed of only 12.4mph on a cold afternoon, and 12.8mph after a good warm through. As the Airframe is never going to attempt serious – or even mild – off-roading, we think a faster, lighter, more delicate tyre, such as the Schwalbe Stelvio, would suit it much better.

One thing the Airframe doesn’t need is suspension.The advantage of the scissor-style frame is a degree of well-damped vertical ‘give’ that would take some beating with gas-shocks and other heavy, complicated things. Of course, the downside is some lateral flexibility, but much less than in days past. Quite how heavier than its predecessor – which might give a clue.That’s still lighter than most folding bikes, and a small price to pay for a more rigid machine with a much wider gear range.

…a briefcase or courier bag fits into the carrier pretty well…

Accessories

All broadly unchanged, but either the rear mudguard design has changed or we failed to notice how ineffective it was in 2002.The long front mudguard is quite good, but the short one at the rear leaves your back plastered in mud. It desperately needs a mudflap of some kind. Otherwise, there’s a bell, plus the odd hinged Airframe carrier system (you take the bike out of the bag, unfold it, hang the bag from the carrier and ride off) which we compared to a deflated balloon in our previous test. The latest bag has a little pocket so it slips over the carrier, but it still looks a bit of an afterthought. On the other hand, a briefcase, or courier bag squeezes into the carrier pretty well, and with a bungee to hold it in place, you have a quick and effective luggage system.

Conclusion

This isn’t the easiest bike to fold and it isn’t the most rigid to ride, but the new Airframe ticks a lot more boxes than the old one, and at £770 it offers a lot of gears for the price. We haven’t said much about looks, but there’s no doubt this is an attractive machine – another area where it scores over the un-self-consciously practical Brompton. If you’re light and don’t have stonking great calf muscles, we’d strongly recommend a test ride.

Airframe Specification

Airframe 8-spd £770 .Weight 11.1kg (24lb) . Folded dimensions W32cm H55cm L103cm Folded volume 181ltrs . Gears Sturmey Archer 8-spd hub . Ratios 27″ 35″ 39″ 44″ 50″ 57″ 65″ 83″ . Manufacturer Silkmead Tubular Ltd tel 01582 609988 mail silkmead@btinternet.com

A to B 52 – Feb 2006

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A to B 49 cover

A to B 49 – Technology Special!

A to B 49 August 2005, Technology SpecialCutting edge stuff! Whatever your preference in alternative transport, this issue will show you something entirely new. Folding bike? Follow our lightweight Brompton project – 10.9kg in 1997 and 9.5kg today. Electric bike? We can offer a range of 35 miles from a Lithium-ion battery… Gears? Professor Pivot investigates a practical fully automatic gearbox… Recumbents? Giant’s new Revive Spirit is stashed with technology.

We’ve tested the future, and it seems to work reasonably well. Compare today’s technology with that of ten years ago, and nothing would be wildly different – just incrementally better in every way. The next ten years will be much the same. Folding bicycles will continue to get lighter, and electric bicycles will go further and faster. At the moment, it’s all rather expensive, but another lesson of history is that prices usually fall once technology gets established. On a final rather gloomier note – today’s transport environment is much worse than it was ten years ago.Will that trend continue?

A to B 49 Contents

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Ezee Lithium Battery

Ezee Lithium-Ion Battery

Ezee Lithium BatteryWe’ve talked before about the energy density of batteries used for bicycle lighting and bicycle motive power.To recap briefly, the battery in a car is a lead-acid device – big, heavy and full of nasty things, but recycleable and reasonably cheap. Batteries like these offer a theoretical energy density of 35 – 50 watt/hours per kilogram (Wh/kg). In practice, taking into account the weight of the cells, casing and wiring, the finished product rarely exceeds 20 – 40 Wh/kg. To get a decent range from such a low-powered battery, it needs to be very heavy – typically 13.4kg for the Powabyke unit.

Technology has long since moved on to the Nickel- Cadmium (NiCd) battery, with a theoretical capacity of 45 – 80Wh/kg – weight for weight, about twice as useful as a lead- acid battery, but full of nasty cadmium, so something of a hazard to the environment.The NiCd has recently been replaced by its more easily recycleable cousin, the Nickel Metal-Hydride, or NiMH battery, currently fitted to around 50% of rechargeable devices worldwide.These batteries have some odd habits, but they recharge relatively fast, and have a theoretical capacity of 60 – 120Wh/kg, which equates to around 40 – 60Wh/kg in practice. Note that although the worst NiMH performance may look similar to the best lead-acid battery, the capacity is measured in a different way, so NiMH and NiCd actually perform better than the bare figures suggest.They also have a much longer service life.

Li-ion

More recently, attention has switched to various kinds of Lithium-ion rechargeable cells.These promise a massive increase in energy density, with theoretical figures of 200 – 700Wh/kg being bandied about in learned papers, but the reality, for the time being at least, is more prosaic. Our first experience with Li-ion technology was the Powabyke experimental cell (A to B 45), which offered just 30Wh/kg, thanks to some ferociously complex internal wiring and a big heavy casing. In the few months since, we’ve tried some more effective technology – typically 73Wh/kg from the Panasonic WiLL battery featured in issue 46, and 69Wh/kg from the similar battery fitted to the Giant Revive in this issue.

“…the battery is 12% lighter and range is increased by nearly 10%…”

Early lithium-ion cells had a tendency to explode, particularly while charging, but a great deal of research has gone into monitoring systems, and alternative electrode chemistry has made them safer and more rugged. Until now, these monitoring systems for the individual cells (a bicycle battery needs up to ten cells) have been crammed into the charger, resulting in lots of wires and a big heavy charger, but miniaturisation has made it possible for the control systems to be fitted inside the battery itself, and the new Ezee Li-ion battery is the first we have tried of this kind.

Ezee bikes are currently supplied with a large, and quite efficient NiMH battery, with an energy density of 57Wh/kg – one of the best figures around.The new battery looks exactly the same, but inside are the electronics to keep everything running happily, and ten Li-ion cells with a capacity some 11% greater than the old battery. Despite the bigger capacity and the complex electronics, the new technology means the battery is 12% lighter than the NiMH, at 4.4kg, against 5.6kg.This results in an energy density of 82Wh/kg – the best we’ve yet tried.And with most of the electronics in the battery, the charger is lighter and easier to use. On the prototype, the charge rate has been set quite low, giving a charge time of nearly five hours, but if testing proceeds smoothly, the unit may be uprated.

For those already using an Ezee Sprint, the technology is fully retrofittable, so you’ll only need to buy the battery and charger to upgrade an older machine.

What do you get?

The lighter battery is obviously a benefit, but more importantly, range is increased by nearly 10% as well.We completed a run on our standard hilly test course of 29.3 miles at an average of no less than 16mph. Our elderly Ezee Forza has a power-hungry US spec: Keeping the assisted speed below the legal limit, we hit 34.9 miles at 14.7mph. That’s a little better than the Powabyke – which is generally considered to give the best range – but from a battery weighing less than a third as much. One slight disadvantage, hinted at by the high road speed, is that the battery runs more or less at full power until the last few hundred metres, before dying almost without warning.

Obviously the lighter battery and greater range make the technology very attractive. And despite the apparent negative aspects of carrying all the electronics around, the charging system seems relatively foolproof against the others we’ve tried.

Those with an interest in chemistry might like to hear that the first generation Li-ion batteries were mostly built around cobalt oxide cathodes, but improved manufacturing methods have made it possible to use manganese oxide, with manganese/titanium oxide on the horizon.Without getting involved with electrons and ionic transfer, all the consumer needs to know is that these are clean, recycleable technologies, and the raw materials are widely available, so prices are expected to fall by 30% in the next year or so.

Any disadvantages? Li-ion cells have been used in mobile phones and laptops for a while now, but despite plenty of lab work, no one is quite sure what will happen in high power, all-weather applications like electric bicycles. Battery life is currently a subject of debate, as is cost, and capacity improvements. Making some very rash predictions, we think performance could well double within five years, giving an electric bike range of up to 60 miles.The related Lithium Polymer battery promises to double the range again, so electric bicycle range of 100 miles, and electric car or motorcycle range of 200 miles seems realistic, but when? Will the technology arrive in time to soften the ‘peak oil’ blow? Only time will tell, but for now, welcome to the future!

Shanghai Ezee Kinetic. UK distributor 50Cycles

A to B 49 – Aug 2005

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Hub Gear Conversion

Hub Gear Conversion

Hub Gear ConversionIf you think about it, the quality of a child’s bike is really important. If a child grows up with a heavy, impractical bicycle, he or she starts life with the impression that bicycles are heavy impractical machines.The evidence from the current generation is that apart from dabbling with BMX, the vast majority stop riding bicycles just as soon as they can, and most never return. Rather disturbingly, there’s growing evidence that many in Alexander’s generation will never learn to ride at all.

When Alexander was old enough for a ‘proper’ bike we chose a German-made Puky. Children’s bikes with dynamo lights, a rack and mudguards are common on the Continent, but only the Puky is easily obtainable here, thanks to importer Amba Marketing. By the spring of 2005, our 18-inch wheel example (see A to B 41) had given great service for 18 months and 400 miles, but at six, the boy was growing rapidly, and trying longer rides.The time had come for an upgrade, but not yet to a bigger bike.

Theory

…any competent cycle engineering should be able to upgrade…to hub gear operation…

How would we define the perfect bike for a small child? For obvious reasons, it needs to be reasonably fashionable. If everyone else is riding Death-Squad BMX UXB MTBs, with unobtainium gussets and nobble-tooth mud pluggers, pushing the sensible, weedy option can be hard work.The bike also needs to be suitable for road use in all weathers, plus some modest off-roading, and come equipped with user-friendly hub gears, brakes, mudguards and lights. Quite a tall order, really.

Puky sell a range of fully-equipped 20-inch bikes, and a few 18-inch bikes, but none of the smaller machines have gears.The answer was to upgrade what we had, adding a Sturmey Archer S-RC3 hub to Alexander’s Puky 18-1B, producing, one assumes, an 18-3B. The beauty of using this rare hub is that it also comes with a back-pedal operated ‘coaster’ brake. Fitting something like this might sound complicated, but any competent cycle engineer should be able to upgrade a single-speed or derailleur-geared bike to hub gear operation.

Three-speed hubs used to be almost universal in Britain, but the arrival of cheap, sexy-looking derailleurs changed all that, and enclosed hub gears are now generally confined to roadsters and small-wheeled bikes. As we point out on a regular basis, this is most unfortunate. Few adults understand the principles of riding with close-ratio derailleur gears and for children, three gears are more than enough to think about.

Hub gears can be changed whilst stationary, making them ideal in traffic (or for those of a forgetful disposition at any time) and although the number of gears might sound modest in this number/size obsessed age, even the most basic hub provides a decent gear range. The range – for those who aren’t quite sure – is the difference between top and bottom gear. A wide range of gears enables the bike to nip along under a wide range of circumstances.

With Alexander’s friends acquiring MTBs with five or six derailleur gears, we found ourselves trying to explain that a SRAM, Nexus or Sturmey three-speed offers a gear range of around 180%, which is about the same as a cheap six-speed derailleur.There’s a widespread belief that hubs are less efficient, but a three-speed should return efficiency of 94-95%, a figure that a cheap derailleur would be pushed to achieve after a few weeks’ youthful abuse. It also comes with bullet-proof indexing and is almost immune from throwing its chain off.

Hub Gear Conversion

 

Coaster brakes have never really caught on here, but having seen a child grow up using one, we’re converts, and most parents on the Continent would probably agree.When you’re learning to make hand signals and keeping an eye open for traffic, there’s a lot to be said for controlling the primary The coaster hub looks brake with your feet. For as if it was made for dad, there are 33% fewer the bike. Note the ‘extra’ cables to adjust and spoke holes and rather lubricate.We hope you’re avant–garde spoke pattern convinced.

Practice

We won’t bore you with the fitting process – if you know what you’re doing, it’s easy, and if you don’t, we’d recommend visiting a good bike shop. Most of the shops that advertise in A to B can carry out this sort of work, but as usual, the real experts are Bicycle Workshop in Birdy rim will fit the larger 355m (18- West London, who regularly upgrade children’s bikes (and adult cruiser bikes) to this sort of spec. If doing the work yourself, the hub costs £65 with a lever changer, plus £8 for the twistgrip. Expect to add around £35 if the shop does the work for you.

The new hub weighs 400g, so with cables and twistgrip, the weight penalty for upgrading from a single-speed has been about 1kg. Starting with a derailleur, you’ll be removing sprockets, cables, a brake lever and a brake caliper, so the weight will be about the same. Gearing depends on circumstances – we fitted an 18-tooth rear sprocket, giving gears of 26″, 35″ and 47″. Broadly speaking, that’s one gear for the flat, and two hill- climbing options. Bottom gear will tackle 12.5% (1:8), taking care of most of the local hills.

Is the boy pleased with his gears? What boy wouldn’t be pleased with a TSS32 shifter, shiny S-RC3 hub, 178% range, 18-tooth sprocket and a host of other part numbers? At six, life is all about numbers. For Alexander, the back pedal brake is familiar territory of course, but the gears took a few days to get used to. Cycling mileage has since rocketed to about 60 miles a month, and the unusual machine, with its novel lights, rack and gears, seems to be much admired.

You can’t win of course. Alexander knows a thing or two about hubs, and he’s already applying subtle pressure for a five-speed. Sturmey doesn’t make a coaster five-speed, but the indestructible SRAM P5 is available in coaster form…The perfect 20-inch bike?

ENGINEERING NOTES

The Sturmey S-RC3, like most hubs, comes drilled for 36-spokes, but children’s rims – including our rare-in- the-UK 355mm rim – are usually drilled for 20. Its unusual to find 305mm (16-inch) rims drilled for 36-spokes, but a inch) bikes. In the largest 20 and 24-inch sizes, there are plenty of rims and tyres to choose from.To make life difficult, we decided to re-drill the old rim to take 18 spokes, lacing the wheel using alternate spoke holes, braced with a single 13G spoke to prevent the wheel ‘winding up’ under braking.This arrangement would be too frail for an adult bicycle, but for a child weighing 22kg, a new rim and 36-spokes aren’t really necessary. On our single-speed bike, we also needed to stretch the rear drop-outs slightly, but it’s more likely that adjustment would be needed in the other direction on a derailleur bike.

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Rim Griddle

Bicycles are responsible for a tiny fraction of transport waste, and people who ride bicycles are renowned hoarders.But most small-wheeled bike commuters will have thrown away a few worn, but otherwise intact wheel rims over the years.They may not be safe to ride on, but there’s no need to throw them away!

Brompton Rim Griddle

Meet the 347mm barbecue griddle.Take one old Brompton front wheel and strip it right down, removing the axle and bearings (you’re bound to find a use for these). Study the spokes: if pre-February 2000, they will be galvanised steel, so you’ll need to fit newer stainless spokes (around £11 per set). Stainless steel spokes will need no more than a thorough clean.

Take the old axle, cut out the centre section and reassemble the two end caps back to back, then re-thread the old spokes to build a two-dimensional wheel, using the new or recycled stainless spokes.You’ll probably need to put spacers (we used 5mm nuts) under the spoke nipples, because the spokes will now be a little long for the job.

Finally, take an old bit of wooden dowel, drill down the middle and put a bolt through the valve hole to fasten the handle to the rim. It would also be sensible to lace wire around the spokes spider’s web fashion to stop chipolatas falling through the gaps, but we prefer the aesthetically pleasing 28-spoke look, and the occasional ashy sausage.

Cost (assuming you re-use old spokes) is zero. And don’t bother with all that charcoal nonsense. Six house bricks, a pile of sticks, and you’re ready to grill. OK, maybe Argos does sell a whole barbecue for £7.99, but that will be rubbish – yours will be a tastefully recycled fashion statement.

PS Those with very few friends could use a 305mm rim, while more gregarious types may need a 406mm.Traditional 26-inch wheels will enable you to cook for the whole street, thus possibly making new friends. An unexpected bonus.

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Giant Revive Spirit Electric Semi-Recumbent

Giant Revive Spirit

Giant Revive Spirit Electric Semi-RecumbentThe Giant Revive, it’s fair to say, has been a long time coming.We first heard whispers of a commercially-produced semi-recumbent bicycle some years ago, and eventually saw one in the summer of 2002.The non-assisted versions went on sale the following spring, the electric variant finally arriving in the summer of 2005.

…if ever there was a candidate for electric-assist, the Revive is it…

If ever there was a candidate for electric-assist, the Revive is it – a dead-cool laid- back beastie, but heavy and relatively difficult to pedal, for all sorts of reasons. From Day One, the conventional model looked power-assisted, and now, with the UK launch of the Spirit derivative, it is.

The Revive

Giant Revive Spirit Electric BikeA brief recap. In recumbent terms, the Revive might be described as a short wheelbase semi-recumbent.The frame is alloy throughout, with various bits hung from a solid- looking main tube that drops down from the steering head area, giving a usefully low step-thru, then sweeps back and up over the rear wheel.The wheel is fixed to another frame member that pivots just ahead of the crank and is supported by a spring/damper unit under the seat tube, which swings sharply upwards from the main frame.Wheels are 406mm (20-inch).

The Revive is one of the tallest recumbents you’re ever likely to see, so don’t expect the drag co-efficient of a tarmac-scorching HPV racer. On the other hand, it’s dead easy to hop on and off, comfortable to ride, and the drag characteristics are about the same as a much less comfortable drop-handlebar upright, or ‘wedgie’ as the recumbent folk like to call them.The comfort and reasonable drag are excellent news.

Giant Revive Spirit Electric BikeLess satisfactory is the weight, the price and the slightly awkward pedalling position. In its short life, the Revive has been produced in a number of versions, but only two models are currently on sale in the UK both with hub gears – Nexus 7-speed on the Revive DX N7 (£675), and Nexus 8-speed on the more luxurious LXC N8 (£875). Giant is a bit coy about weight, but reports suggest these non-assisted machines weigh at least 19kg (42lb), which compares rather badly with similar conventional bikes.With low drag and high weight, bikes of this kind tend to see more extremes of speed than a traditional bicycle – heart- stopping descents and painfully slow climbs. And that’s where the power-assisted Spirit comes in, because a little assistance goes a long way to even out your progress.

Revive Spirit

Giant Revive Spirit Electric BikeAt £1,499, the Spirit is the most expensive electric bike in the UK, by several hundred pounds. It’s also the most sophisticated: lithium-ion battery, integral trip computer, automatic halogen light and many other cumfy luxuries. Strangely enough, given the quality of the equipment, the Spirit is fitted with one of the world’s most basic hub gears; Shimano’s three-speed Nexus.We express surprise because this hub is also available in Auto-D form, and an automatic hub would seem ideal for a laid- back flagship like the Spirit. And this year, Shimano has introduced something called Di2 cyber Nexus, bringing together its generally well considered eight-speed hub with a front hub-powered computer, auto shift mechanism, auto suspension, auto lights, and… well, you get the idea.

…an auto hub would seem ideal for a laid-back flagship like the Spirit…

In the end, one assumes, Giant had to stop specifying equipment, to bring the Spirit in at a just manageable price.Weight must have been a problem too. Semi-recumbents with bodywork look oh so cute on the CAD screen, but every panel and bit of trim adds a few grams, and on a bicycle, weight is a real killer.To be fair, given the weight of the non- assisted versions, the Spirit does rather well at 33.2kg complete with battery.

In electric bike terms, that’s well below the average weight, but a few kilograms heavier than the Ezee Sprint, and a lot heavier than Giant’s own featherweight Twist models, which start at 22.2kg. Incidentally, if you’re one of those people who look at things in purely practical terms, the Spirit is completely outclassed by the Twist. Against the basic Twist Lite, it costs 67% more, weighs 50% more and offers 17% less range. Clearly, if it doesn’t triumph in some other department, it’s doomed.

What the naked facts and figures don’t convey is style, something the Spirit exudes from most of its pores. Put it this way, it’s the only bike that drew a crowd just to see the box opened. Giant took a gamble introducing a recumbent, but they got the design broadly right.The styling looks flash enough to tempt snazzy Kings Road types, while the soft greys and blues of the colour scheme will appeal to doddery greys promenading the Costa del Sol.This really is the bike for everyman and everywoman, provided, of course, they have fifteen hundred quid burning a hole in their pocket.

On the Road

Giant Revive Spirit Electric Bike

These panniers are small, but there’s plenty of room for full size ones

By and large, the Panasonic power unit fits quite neatly into the Spirit.The motor/gearbox sits where the bottom bracket would be, in the suspended part of the frame, and the tiny li-ion battery is secreted away in a streamlined box behind the seatpost and under the rack. The high rack gives plenty of room for full- size panniers or indeed – with the addition of a couple of footpegs – a small person. Giant’s lawyers have gone mad on this one, ruling out any sort of child seat on pain of death. That’s a shame, because it’s a roomy, sprung platform that could be very effective for dropping little Tarquin off at school. Giant  suggests a maximum load of 15kg, but the rack is a rugged affair, so we’d guess that a touring load of twice that amount would be secure. Usefully, the rack is within easy reach, so mobile phone, camera or binoculars are just where you want them. Less usefully, the rack bars are too wide for standard pannier clips.

With no fewer than five height/reach adjusters, the Revive will fit almost anyone. Giant claims a range from 5′ to 6′ 5″ tall, something that we can more or less confirm. The saddle slides along a steeply inclined stem like any other bike, but in this case there’s also a lumbar support that should nestle comfortably in the small of the back and a saddle fore/aft adjuster.This – to put it in the crudest possible terms – is a bottom-sizing gauge. Pert, compact bottoms will be more comfortable with the saddle back, whilst wobbly couch-bums will prefer the saddle forward.

Having wiggled your nether regions into position, the next task is to move the handlebar stem back and forth and up and down to find a comfortable position. Both operations are controlled with one clever quick-release, and fine tuning doesn’t seem to be as critical as it would be on a conventional bike. In practice, adjustment of the saddle and handlebars isn’t usually necessary, with most people under six foot sharing the same settings. Even where adjustments are needed, they’re quick and easy to make. From this point of view, the Revive is a practical multi-user machine.

Giant Revive Spirit Electric Bike

Saddle fore and aft adjuster on the left and height adjuster on the tends to make the right.The saddle runs in the two inclined tracks. suspension bob up

Once you’re comfortable, it’s time to fiddle with the suspension spring pre-load and damper rate.The damper knob is easy, but unlike the cheaper DX, the knurled spring adjuster ring is rather tucked away on the Spirit, making this operation a bit difficult. On our bike, the pre- load was set right at the wobbly couch-bum end of the range, so we had to do some fiddling to get enough suspension movement.

On a conventional bike, pedal force platform.The battery lives under here and down, but this with a semi- recumbent, especially a power-assisted one, so the spring and damper can be set softer than normal, giving a real ‘magic carpet’ ride. ‘This’, said one very occasional bicycle rider, ‘doesn’t feel like a bicycle at all!’ That sort of comment will bring smiles and nods of approval in the Giant boardroom.

Giant Revive Spirit Electric Bike

Saddle, lumbar support is less of a problem and rear rack

Rather surprisingly, the Revive has no suspension at the front, so the front tyre pressure needs to be kept quite low.We chose the maximum of 55psi at the rear, but only 20psi in the lightly-loaded front tyre.That’s acceptable, provided you bear in mind that a recumbent cannot be ‘lifted’ over bumps like a conventional bike, so kerbs must be tackled with some caution.

Handling is relaxed and unspectacular.At low speed, the bike goes more or less where you point it, but on a fast bend, it usually needs some sort of corrective flick halfway round. No real problem, but adding a little excitement to an otherwise uneventful ride. Without power, the lack of gear range is all too obvious.The Nexus hub gives a bottom ratio of 45”, middle of 61” and top of 83” – spot-on for power-assist, but a bit high for a heavy bike on muscle-power alone.That said, the Spirit trogs along quite well in flattish terrain, provided you don’t mind being overtaken by old ladies on rusty shoppers.

Giant Revive Spirit Electric Bike

The suspension is enclosed. Note the damper adjuster knob

Power is brought in by pressing a big red button, which unleashes a high-tec bleeping noise and some rather ineffectual power-on-demand when the pedals are turned. At low speed, the motor is surprisingly noisy, making the sort of whining noise that Foden lorries used to emit on gradients.That might be a bit unfair, but it’s certainly noisier than the Twist: a background whine, with overtones of Tardis. Grumbling and whining thus, the Spirit accelerates painfully to 12mph before running out of steam (although oddly enough, the motor continues to run quietly in the background right up to 15mph, but without doing any useful work). If that was the end of the story, Giant would be in big trouble, but the Spirit also has a twistgrip and a lock-button labelled ‘cruise’.

It took us a while to get the hang of all this. Basically, the default setting is what you might call ‘economy’ mode (‘Pedal Activated Power’ in Giant-speak), and the twistgrip can be used to dial in a bit more oomph (‘Variable Power Control’). For long boring ascents, the level of assistance can also be locked with the ‘cruise’ button, keeping output at the chosen level until you brake or stop pedalling.

This all sounds a bit complicated, but it works. If you’re just cruisin’, switch on and pedal gently away at up to 12mph. If you’re late for work, lock the twistgrip on full and you’ll spurt off.Well, perhaps ‘spurt’ is a bit strong.We didn’t dare dismember the power unit to get the figures, but the Li-ion unit is definitely less powerful than the older NiMh device fitted to the Twist. On the flat, speed rises at a reasonable rate to the legal limit of 15mph, at which point the motor cuts out rather abruptly. If your poor legs can’t keep up, speed falls until the power pops abruptly back on, continuing to ‘hunt’ in and out of engagement for as long as speed stays in the 15-16mph zone.

The reason for this rather crude behaviour is that the Spirit is designed for the US market where (in most states) power is allowed to top-out at 18mph. For Europe, and other 24km/hr markets, the top speed is capped using the speedometer sensor on the back wheel. So if you’re very very late for work, you can swing the speedo magnet aside, disabling the speed limiter. Riding an electric bike at 18mph is a bit naughty, but a mere piffle against driving a ton of motor car at 50mph in a 30mph limit whilst blahing into a mobile phone and lighting a cigarette. Quite common in these parts.

In any event, the Spirit will only keep up 18mph under the most favourable conditions.The Giant Twist Lite will stomp up quite steep hills, but the reduced human and electrical input on the Spirit make it wilt very quickly.The basic PAP power setting allows you to struggle up gradients of perhaps 10% (1:10), but you’ll need to use all the gears, and it’s a slow process.Wind the twistgrip fully open, and the motor is zesty enough to tackle 12.5% (1:8) with reasonable ease, and climb 17% (1:6) with a fair bit of effort and some odd clonks and groans (not all of them from the rider). If you try rushing the gear changes, the Nexus hub adds some odd noises of its own, but we found the change improved with use.

Clearly, anyone expecting to sprint across the Lake District with a full touring load will be disappointed. A crank-motor of this type can be adapted for hill-climbing by fitting a larger rear sprocket, but this obviously lowers all the gears. A better solution would be to fit more gears, such as the 8-speed Di2 Cyber Nexus, or whatever Shimano calls it. Our advice is to test the Spirit on a familiar hill, if you can find a willing dealer.

Range

Giant Revive Spirit Electric BikeRange on full power is so- so.There are three capacity lights: On our ‘mountain course’, the first popped off at four miles and the second at six miles, which almost caused us to abort the test. In practice, the gauge is a bit hit- and-miss, because we soon had two lights on again. Four miles on we were back with one, at 14 miles it began to flash, and the end came abruptly at 16.2 miles. Average speed was 13.7mph – quite low by modern electric bike standards, particularly considering the rapid descents. In flat country, we managed 17.4 miles at 14mph, which is even more disappointing.

By comparison, a Giant Twist will deliver about 20 miles from a battery of similar capacity.That said, the NiCd battery on the Twist weighs 3.9kg, and the Li-ion battery on the Spirit weighs only 2.1kg, so if you can afford £350, a spare battery will double the range without adding noticeably to the weight of the bike. Incidentally, the standard battery has a 144Wh capacity, but Panasonic also produce a tiny 86Wh unit and has just introduced a bigger version of 173Wh. If these fit the Spirit – and no one can tell us if they do – they would add greatly to its flexibility.

There’s more good news if you have the will power to leave the twistgrip alone, because this increases the range a good deal. After completing our full power run, we gave the battery a brief 2-hour charge (about 60%) and set off for home, covering the same 16 miles fairly easily with careful power management. Interestingly, average speed was not much less, at 12.5mph. It’s a bit difficult to put a figure on maximum range under gentler conditions, because so many variables are involved, but our experience suggests 25 miles or so.

…none of the arm, finger, neck and bottom aches that bicycling sometimes inflict…

One thing we can say is that the Spirit is at its best on long rides in rolling open country. In town, the gears crash and the motor whines and grumbles, but once up to 15mph (or 18mph) the power unit becomes less obtrusive and the bike proves surprisingly comfortable. After an hour and a half in the saddle, we experienced none of the arm, finger, neck and bottom aches that bicycling sometimes inflicts.The only slightly negative aspect is that the large saddle and backrest can get a bit sweaty after a while. Still, you can’t have everything.There was general agreement that long-distance comfort was the Spirit’s strongest card.

Almost without exception, riders praised the comfort, the visibility, the security of the low step-thru and the gentle assistance that dealt very well with nagging headwinds and rolling hills.

Charger and Accessories

Sliding the battery out looks easy enough, but it’s a two-handed job – one hand to turn the key and the other to pull the battery handle. If it’s tight, as ours was, it’s liable to free rather explosively, trapping your fingers painfully behind the rack tubes. If they’re all the same, this is a serious design fault, because most people would be unable to charge the battery without help.

The compact charger looks similar to the NiMH device sold with early Twist models, but it has no warning lights, the state of charge being determined by a row of LEDs on the battery. Like all Li-ion chargers, the Spirit charger is a complex animal, the technology being necessary to prevent the cells getting out of ‘sync’ with each other. Giant claims a charge time of four hours, but this proved slightly pessimistic.The primary charge takes about three hours and 20 minutes, plus another 20 minutes or so for the last few dregs. Not quite as rapid as filling a petrol tank, but in the electric bike world, three hours for a 95% charge is pretty good.

Based on the power consumed from the mains supply, fuel consumption is around 12.5Wh/mile, which is a bit on the high side, particularly for such a modest average speed. If we can believe the quoted battery capacity of 144Wh, we get a figure of 8.7Wh, which sounds much more impressive.With the bicycle costing £1,499, and replacement batteries at £350 a pop, it is hardly surprising that running costs are the highest we’ve seen. Our estimate is 11.2p per mile, or about twice as expensive as the cheapest machines.

Most of the accessories have been touched on elsewhere.We were impressed by the integral speedometer/computer in the ‘instrument nacelle’. Unfortunately, thanks to the threat of weather and vandalism, this is removable, and we had a few problems with the quick-release catch, which is hard to operate and liable to fail on the road.The computer never quite fell out, but once loose it stops working, which can be annoying.

Lighting is excellent.The Spanninga Ultra Xs rear light is a dynamo standlight version of the Ultra Xba fitted to the Twist Comfort – bright and very effective.The Spanninga Radius Auto headlight is a bit less successful. Like the B&M Oval lamp fitted to the Twist Comfort, this is an automatic system, feeding the front and rear light with power when it senses low light levels. But in this case, all three options – off, on and auto – are on one switch, out of reach on the headlamp. It’s fiddly to use, and finding the ‘auto’ setting can mean a lot of frustrating wheel spinning and head scratching. After a week or so, the rubber cap popped off the switch, which could have allowed rain straight into the electronics – a recipe for disaster. Once you get it working, automatic is excellent, turning on the powerful lights under trees or bridges, and even during gloomy weather.

Brakes are the reliable, but rather stodgy Nexus roller hubs.When new, these are weak, spongy and lacking in feel, but they do eventually run-in to give reasonable performance. Roller brakes can overheat on long descents, but they’re unaffected by water or oil contamination and require very little maintenance.

Conclusion

…the comfort and relaxed riding style will find many converts…

We’d hate to leave the impression that the Spirit offers more problems than advantages.That might seem true on paper, but for all its flaws, it generates a feel good factor that’s difficult to quantify – let’s just say it left everyone smiling. Unusually in our experience, even the most sceptical were won over, and everyone loved riding it.The Spirit isn’t very fast, but it can be a lot of fun on twisty descents, and on the long climb back up again, which is more than you can say for the unassisted versions.This sort of machine isn’t ideal for city commuting, but it strikes a good compromise: high enough to be safe in traffic, but low enough and long- legged enough to tackle a round daily commute of 15-20 miles or so, provided the hills aren’t too taxing. In practice, most purchasers will be older leisure riders, and for this market, the comfort and relaxed riding style will find many converts. Is it worth £1,500? Not in our book, perhaps, but if you’re finding a conventional bike hard work, it almost certainly is. Overall – rather to our surprise – we like it.

Specification

Giant Revive Spirit £1,499 .Weight Bike 31.1kg Battery 2.1kg Total 33.2kg (73lb) . Gearing Nexus 3-spd hub . Ratios 45″ 61″ 83″ . Battery Lithium-ion . Capacity144Wh . Spare battery £350 . Range 16.2 miles . Full charge 3hr 40m . Fuel consumption Overall 12.5Wh/mile Running costs 11.2p/mile . Manufacturer Giant BicyclesUK distributor Giant UK Ltd tel 0115 977 5900 mail info@giant-uk.demon.co.uk

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DIY Traffic Calming

DIY Traffic CalmingOnce upon a time, not so very long ago,if you lived beside a British trunk road your life would be a nightmare of congestion, pollution and constant danger. As the years passed, the nightmare spread; first to ‘A’ class roads, then ‘B’ roads (remember when you could cycle on those sweeping rural highways?), and finally to unclassified roads in all but the most remote corners of these islands.

Today, almost every stretch of tarmac that isn’t protected by cameras, chicanes and speed bumps of various kinds has become a lethal rat run.West Park, Castle Cary is a good example – a cul-de-sac for God’s sake, but somehow traffic manages to thunder up the road at 30mph before screeching into one of the rare parking spaces. If they’re all taken, the vehicle simply double parks.

The Problem

The problem is that we walk and cycle along our road, our pets do whatever it is that pets do along it, and our children play, and learn to ride bicycles here too. If children cannot safely learn to ride on a suburban cul-de-sac, where can they learn? And if we give in and accept that all roads are now too dangerous, is there really any point in them learning to ride at all?

…visual clues indicate… that this road space… is where people live, walk, talk and play…

Our road and the houses along it  were once owned by the local authority, until such social housing was swept away by Mrs T’s home ownership revolution.The handful of houses remaining in local authority hands were transferred to a housing trust, which also took control of the car park, while the rest of the road remained with the authority.

We asked the trust if speed humps or warning signs could be put in, and although generally sympathetic, it said this was really a local authority problem, suggesting we petition the Highways Department at the local district council.The reply, a full month later, is perhaps indicative of the thinking prevalent in those authorities where the 1960s car revolution is still very much underway. Naturally, the traffic engineer shared our concerns, but was at pains to point out that:‘…children should not be playing in the road. It is a dangerous practice and should be discouraged.’ Remember, we are talking about a short cul-de-sac ending in a car park used primarily by residents.The highways man continues:

‘There are warning signs that we can erect, but the guidelines we have to follow clearly state that they should only be used to warn drivers of the presence of schools or playgrounds and the likelihood of encountering children on the road ahead.This does not apply as far as West Park is concerned… if we were to erect a sign and there was an accident, it could well put the Highway Authority in a vulnerable position…’

School Crossing Road SignNot to put too fine a point on it, this is utter nonsense. According to the Department for Transport’s ‘Road Safety Good Practice Guide’, urban residential roads account for nearly 40% of all crashes (‘accidents’, according to DfT) and a high proportion of the casualties are children.The answer, according to recommendation 4.67, is that: ‘On residential access roads drivers need to be given visual cues that indicate strongly that this road space is part of the environment where people live, walk, talk and play.’

Traffic calming measures can be quite problematical. Speed humps are complex to install, the emergency services may choose to object (less likely on a cul- de-sac, of course), and to be safe and fully effective, they must be well lit and signed. Surely the answer is a warning sign, indicating that children might be playing? Something that children have always done and always will do, on quiet cul-de-sacs?

In practice, there’s nothing to stop you buying a road sign and erecting it on private land, but there is very little precedent for members of the public purchasing DfT-approved signs and erecting them in a public place. In our case, the sign would need to be fixed to a local authority pole, on the boundary between the road owned and managed by the local authority, and the car park owned and managed by the housing association.

…anyone responsible for a hazard is entitled to warn road users about it…

Local authorities have wide powers to remove unauthorised advertising signs, and equally wide powers to put up their own road signs, provided they are produced to exacting standards laid down by the Department for Transport in the guidance notes ‘Traffic Signs Regulations and General Directions’.Where motorists are likely to encounter children, the appropriate sign is one that will be recognised by all road users – these are commonly found on the approaches to schools and playgrounds, but not, as our local authority claims, exclusively in these places.The particular hazard is usually indicated beneath the sign, and there are several options available, most appropriately in our case, the all encompassing:‘Caution Children’.

Anarchy in the UK?

If members of the public started putting up ‘obligatory’ road signs wherever they wished, traffic management would deteriorate into a state of anarchy, but the rules regulating triangular warning signs are rather different. If your car breaks down, you’re entitled to display a warning triangle, and in practice, anyone responsible for a hazard is entitled – even encouraged – to warn road users with appropriate signing.We had informed our local authority of a hazard (namely Alexander and co) and the authority had shown itself unwilling to help, so we decided to go it alone.

Several companies manufacture road signs, either to customer specifications for private roads, or to DfT specification for highway use.We chose to buy from HM Prison Coldingley, near Woking in Surrey. Coldingley is one of the key manufacturers of DfT- approved road signs, and can supply anything to order, profits helping to run the prison and giving a small income to prisoners.These things aren’t cheap, but they’re well made and obviously designed to survive in all weathers for many years. Our sign, in the smallest standard size (575mm x 870mm, including the warning plate) cost £105, complete with fitting kit and delivery.

One thing we weren’t expecting was the goodwill of friends and neighbours telling us just how much they appreciated the sign, and it does look businesslike. Does it work? All the indications are that it works very well indeed. In the short-term at least, traffic speeds are reduced, and cars are approaching with a new awareness that – as the DfT puts it – they are entering road space where people live, walk, talk and play. Motorists are not demons, they’re ordinary folk, but a lack of guidance from above had allowed our tiny road to become a race-track by default.With an appropriate message, drivers have once again started to drive in an appropriate manner. It really is that simple.

Home Zones

Home Zones are a successful feature of the road scene in The Netherlands, and a few pilot schemes have been established in the UK. Home Zones are usually established in urban residential areas, using street furniture, vegetation and other features to break up the street, and make motorised road users feel less comfortable, reducing the speed and volume of traffic. In rural areas, roads may similarly be designated as Quiet Lanes, the aim being to encourage pedestrians, cyclists, horse riders and wildlife to return. As our experience shows, not all highways departments and traffic engineers are enthusiastic, but under the Transport Act 2000, they certainly have the power to designate any road that meets DfT criteria as either a Quiet Lane or a Home Zone. Broadly speaking, a rural road is considered suitable if it carries less than 1,000 vehicles per day, and a residential road if it carries less than 100 cars ‘in the afternoon peak hour, with little or no through traffic’. Get counting and good luck! You have nothing to lose and everything to gain!

Further reading: The DfT website includes a great deal of information on road safety, road signs and Home Zones. The l can supply books, leaflets, videos and advice on all aspects of Home Zones and other street-calming initiatives: www.ncb.org.uk, Play England. HM Prison Coldingley tel 01483 804300 fax 01483 804427

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